Dior’s “Just Bitten” Lipstick Is The Fall Makeup Look You Can Wear Now

Anything can happen in a New York minute, including a runway-worthy makeup look. For Dior’s Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection presented at the Brooklyn Museum, the brand’s global makeup creative and image director, Peter Philips created a look centered around a blurred “bitten” lip. The finish is reminiscent of the faded oxblood stain the average NYC woman gets after taking a few sips of Malbec at whatever restaurant is currently impossible to book on Resy. It also ties in Dior Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri’s inspiration for the show, the rawness of NYC and the duality of masculinity and femininity, the signature style of ‘20s movie star Marlene Dietrich.

“I wanted it to look like a bitten lip. In French, it's called 'bouche mordue.' It looks like leftover lipstick after you drink a few glasses of red wine or after you kiss someone, which is both very Parisian and very New York,” Philips told editors backstage. To achieve the effect, the artist used Dior’s Rouge Dior Forever in 111 Forever Night or 670 Rose Blues and tapped onto the lips, slightly over-lining them, with an eyeshadow brush.

The raw glamour theme was further driven home with an intentionally bare face. After prepping the models’ skin with Dior Capture Totale Le Sérum and Capture Totale Hyalushot, Philips created a glowy base with the brand’s Forever Glow Star Filter, which was also used to softly highlight the face. The Forever Skin Glow Foundation and Forever Skin Correct Concealer were also applied to mask any imperfections. “I didn't sculpt the face and we didn't use any contouring or highlighter,” he says. “I wanted a very flat face. The light on the runway will help to sculpt."

Aside from perfecting the models’ brows with the On Set Brow Pencil and On Set Brow Gel so they looked full and strong, the eyes were left bare with only a touch of eyeshadow tapped along the lash line for definition.

For hair, lead stylist Guido Palau added the traditional femininity to the overall look by crafting ‘40s-inspired waves and braided updos, a few of which were accessorized with bedazzled dragon fly pins. Some “boyish” styles with the hair tucked under or done in bobs were added for good measure. “There’s something very beautiful about that point in time,” Palau said backstage. “Maria [Grazia Chiuri] felt a connection to strong women and so the hair is done in waves with side parts and some have the sides pulled up. Palau added that he used products from the hair care line he created with Zara, specifically the Hair Spray and Volumizing Mousse, to create the styles.

Overall, the hair and makeup was a synergy between the feminine and masculine sides within every woman. "It's about the idea that a strong woman can wear a sparkly dress but also have a no-makeup look,” Philips said. “She can wear a suit, but with glamorous hair. I think that's very Parisian, but at the same time, very New York. That's where these two worlds can come together and create something great.”