These Gel Nail Extensions Aren't As Damaging As Acrylics

As someone who has never been able to grow strong natural nails that don’t break, I spent the last few years latched onto acrylics. It was great at first because I finally had room for intricate designs, but every time I came into the salon to get them off, my nails became more and more fragile. Last April was the final straw. Post-removal I noticed that my right pinkie nail was incredibly thin and later that week, it broke in half. Not only was this super painful, but it took a whole month to grow back. It was at this point that I decided to swear off acrylics for good and make the switch to gel nail extensions.

With so many options to choose from, like Gel-X, hard gel, builder gel, and Polygel, the biggest question was which one was best for me. And I know I’m not alone in struggling to find an answer. If you think the different types of gel nail extensions are confusing, it’s because they are. When they all look the same in the end, it can be hard to tell a difference in quality and efficacy, especially when there are small distinctions between the application methods.

“Nail terms get a bit confusing especially as new nail products continue to come onto the market,” says Vancouver, Canada-based nail technician Daron Wood. However, she notes that the diversity in types and methods of administration gives gel a huge advantage over acrylic because it can be tailored to each person. Very different from the standard soft gel manicure, these other forms of gel create resistant extensions using a variety of formulas. Gel-X allows for more flexibility, hard gel adds durability, builder gel is great for natural nail growth, and Polygel is easy to sculpt. The main similarity is that they all have to be cured under a UV lamp to dry.

These extensions are also safer because unlike acrylic application, they don’t involve harsh chemicals that emit fumes. The paste applied when doing acrylics is formed from a technician mixing liquid monomer with solid acrylic powder. This creates a strong smell that can be harmful to breathe in, while gel products come in a singular bottle or pot with no need to mix chemical ingredients. “You’d have to have an actual gel allergy to have a reaction to gel where as with acrylic there are a lot of variables that can make it unsafe,” says Wood.

Still, Wood says that she wants everyone to know that acrylic isn’t inherently bad for your nails. Its dangers have more to do with the skill of the technician and the quality of the product. “Going to an under-qualified nail tech or one who is rushing, [you’ll find that they] over file your natural nails and do improper removals,” says Wood.

What makes it worse, Wood says, is that run-of-the-mill nail salons will often use MMA powder, an ingredient meant for dental work, instead of acrylic. This product bonds too heavily to the nail which means that if your extension cracks, your natural nail will crack with it. And you might not know it has been used until it comes time to take them off.

Although it’s illegal to use in many states, Wood says that salons often get away with it because clients usually don’t have the knowledge to tell the difference. Certain beauty supply stores will even sell MMA to nail artists without them knowing, so you have to make sure you are going to a reputable nail artist or distributor. With this in mind, Wood says that gel is always going to be a safe bet.

If you’re looking for more clarification on the many gel nail extension practices, TZR has tapped Wood as well as Long Island City-based nail tech Katherine Rodriguez and New York City-based celebrity manicurist Julie Kandalec to breakdown four key styles. Plus, an analysis on all of the advantages and disadvantages, so you are fully equipped to make the choice of which one you might want to try.

Gel-X

What Is Gel-X?

Gel-X, is a nail extension system created by Aprés, says Wood. These are full-cover tips made from soft gel that are placed over the entire nail. They are adhered onto the natural nail using a solution known as Extend Gel. The nails are then cured under a UV or LED lamp for several seconds. After this process, the nail artist will continue to buff and shape before applying the desired color of soft gel polish on top which also must be cured and set. If properly applied, this manicure can last over three weeks.

What Are The Advantages Of Gel-X?

Wood says a huge advantage of opting for Gel-X is that the non-harsh technique encourages growth. This increases the potential of going sans extensions once your nails become healthy and sturdy.

“They’re easy to work with, often self-leveling which makes for smooth nails without a lot of finish filing, [and they lead to a] shorter appointment than hard gel,” says Wood.

What Are The Disadvantages of Gel-X?

The main disadvantage, Woods says, comes from the fact that Gel-X add-ons cover the entire nail rather than being glue-on tips. “If [they] are applied poorly they can look like press-on nails,” Wood adds. Plus, this method must be removed and re-applied each time you want something different as opposed to just receiving a fill.

Hard Gel

What Is Hard Gel?

The main thing that differentiates hard gel from soft gel, says Wood, is that in this mixture the molecules are more compact and tight. They can’t dissolve off with acetone because they are less porous, so they must be filed off upon removal.

Wood says that there are two different techniques to attaching these extensions, either a nail form or a nail tip. With the former, a piece of sticker paper lined with a grid is attached under the edge of the natural nail. The gel is then built up from the cuticle onto this paper to create the formation of the extension. Once it hardens from the UV light, the paper is disconnected leaving you with the extension.

If the nail technician is using a tip, this is fitted and glued to the edge of the natural nail, shaped to the chosen length, and the hard gel is used on top to secure and smooth the base before going under a lamp. Although it used to be limited, in recent years, hard gels have started to come in different viscosities and colors. What is used is up to the discretion of the nail artist and their clients.

“If applied with proper apex for the length, these should last as long as a set of acrylic nails,” says Wood. “I usually recommend three weeks between appointments, but some people go longer.”

What Are The Advantages Of Hard Gel?

According to Wood, an advantage to using hard gel is the durability. This makes it a good choice for someone with more pliant nails that might be prone to breakage. You are also able to do nail fills which not only makes this method long-lasting, but it lessens salon time at follow-up appointments, which is always a plus.

What Are The Disadvantages Of Hard Gel?

The main disadvantage, Wood says, is that because you must file them off, removal can potentially be more harmful if your nail artist isn’t taking their time. She also recommends going to someone who is experienced in this practice to achieve a smooth, clean finish that isn’t bulky.

Polygel/Acrygel

What Is Polygel?

Although this extension system is generally referred to as Polygel, Kandalec says that the proper term is acrygel, with Polygel, owned by Hand & Nail Harmony, simply being the most popular brand choice. Kandalec thinks it’s becoming increasingly popular because of the way it combines processes. “It’s as if gel and acrylic had a baby and took the best parts from each product.”

Rodriguez, who mostly works with Polygel, says that there are three different methods of using this product to add length. Like with hard gel, you can use a tip or a nail form, but a dual form is another frequently used technique. This is similar to a full cover tip, as it covers the entire nail, but they aren’t attached to your natural nail for long. Acrygel is applied to the bottom of the faux nail with a brush. It is then pressed to the natural nail and cured. Once it has dried, the fake nail is removed and underneath, the product has hardened to form the extension. Acrygel comes in soak-off and file off concoctions. Rodriguez says that from her experience soaking isn’t super effective, so she always files the extension nails off to avoid wasting time.

Depending on a clients’s job and how much they have to work with their hands, Rodriguez says that Polygel nails can last anywhere from four to eight weeks. “On average, though, I'd say they can last a good five weeks before looking super worn down.” Polygel is conducive to fills, but Rodriguez says that often clients will get each set filed off completely depending what style they’ve chosen next.

What Are The Advantages Of Polygel?

As for advantages, Rodriguez says that because Polygel is incredibly thick, more so than hard gel, it is less difficult to lose control when guiding and shaping. In addition, she says that she loves the diversity that Polygel allows because it isn’t limiting with length and lasting capabilities. “My favorite [advantage] of all is that anything you can do with acrylic, you can do with Polygel, you just have to know the ins and outs.”

What Are The Disadvantages Of Polygel?

Rodriguez doesn’t cite any disadvantages that affect the client, but she says nail artists can have trouble using Polygel because it acclimates to the temperature you work out of. If it’s too warm, it will become runny and sticky, but if the room is too cold, it will become too thick and hard to work with.

Builder Gel

What Is Builder Gel?

Builder gel is usually used to add strength and grow length of natural nails. Kandalec says that this product works well to form a very “flattering” C-shape at the edge of the nail. Coming in a bottle or pot, it is applied using a brush that guides the gel to cover the entire natural nail to form a strong apex. This type of gel can come in soft and semi-hard formulas that can be removed with acetone, and hard that has to be filed off. Wood says that if soft builder gel is used on your first appointment, as the nails grow, it will be switched out to semi-hard to better protect longer nails from breakage.

A favored brand is CND Plexigel, a semi-hard builder gel that comes in two classes: Shaper and Builder. Kandelec describes that while Shaper is thinner and can configure a short length, you can build a lengthy appendage using builder.

Because this method allows for fills, it has become popular for people who wish to have longer nails by natural means. Wood says she only soaks and re-applies soft builder gel, when clients have a job where their hands are often in water or touching chemicals because this can wear down the gel. This medium can last over three weeks.

What Are The Advantages Of Builder Gel?

Wood says the main advantage is the thicker viscosity. This creates a more effortless experience in forming a good nail tip without having to apply so many layers. Because of this, your result is a clean and refined finish.

What Are The Disadvantages Of Builder Gel?

A big fan of this method, Wood says that she doesn’t view any disadvantages. However, if you are looking for instant length the probability of this method working for you is contingent on the type of builder gel you choose.