(Makeup)

This Unexpected Lipstick Color Added Pure Goth Glamour To Versace's Latest Show

Moody and mysterious.

by Amanda Ross
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A model walks the runway of the Versace Fashion Show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring...

Even before the first platform sandal hit the candelabra-lined runway, the world knew Versace’s Spring/Summer 2023 show would be one to remember. The presentation, bathed in every shade of purple light, felt as much like a gilded, large-scale Liberace performance as a fashion show — and judging by the glass-encased piano piece that kicked it off, that might just be the point. Versace shows are reliably multi-sensory, and that extend to the carefully constructed beauty looks chosen to accompany the clothes on the catwalk. This year, purple lipstick — in a signature Versace shade that matched the show settings — perfectly encapsulated the collection’s theme: dark, gothic goddesses. Sensual, sultry, and not without a knowing wink, even the celebrities and supermodels walking the runway seemed energized by the moody makeup showcased.

The rich purple lipstick shades seen on several of the Versace models flitted between a deep plum and a true royal purple, anchored by cool, blue tones. Created to match the set dressing — including the Medusa logos projecting in the windows like cathedral stained glass — the purple also appears in winged eyeshadow on other models, including Bella and Gigi Hadid. Interestingly, the finishes on both the purple lipstick and eyeshadow weren’t just the standard-issue goth mattes, but featured metallics, soft satins, and even a shimmery pop of shine in eyes’ inner corners. This fits perfectly with Donatella Versace’s own philosophy on dark, gritty glamour — it’s always illuminated by at least a little sparkle.

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“I have always loved a rebel,” Versace herself explains in the shows’ press release. “She wears leather, studs, and frayed denim, and she has enough attitude to mix them with chiffon, jersey, and a tiara!” Or maybe a veil. The show’s final looks included Versace’s latest take on bridal wear, featuring sexy, lace-torn slips with matching wedding veils — very appropriate considering the church setting. The closer was even newlywed Paris Hilton, who strutted out in a hot pink, crystal-covered dress, complete with a Y2K-French manicure and mesh gloves.

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While theme-matching makeup isn’t anything new at Milan Fashion Week, this meticulous, color-coordinated approach is an instantly-memorable one. With smoky eyes and vampy lipstick taking over sidewalks and runways alike, it looks like Versace just assured everyone that the drama isn’t going anywhere next year.