Sable Yong On Creating A Fragrance Inspired By A Book

Every scent evokes an emotion. In Scent Stories, TZR asks tastemakers, celebrities, and industry insiders to share the stories behind the smells of their past and present.

Thought-provoking books are a common source of inspiration for hit TV shows and blockbuster movies, but what about fine fragrance? When you are a writer, former Allure beauty editor, and co-host of the fragrance podcast Smell Ya Later, you’re of course going to make a perfume that fully encapsulates the essence of your first book of essays. This is exactly what led Sable Yong to create Die Hot With A Vengeance, an eau de parfum that gets its name from her debut on DEYST, an imprint of HarperCollins. In the collection of essays, Yong explores how capitalism and societal pressures stand in the way of beauty being fully realized as a means of self-expression, whether that’s dyeing your hair pink or wearing a really good shade of red lipstick.

The scent, made in collaboration with Hoax Parfum, a New York City-based boutique olfactive design house founded by perfumer Joey Rosin, is described on Yong’s site as a the perfect scent for “stylish villains undone by their own glamour, morally ambiguous main characters, and disgraced heiresses.” Red wine spilled on a Birkin bag, fresh tire tread on a cool night’s asphalt, and smeared lipstick stains on suede are other visuals thrown into the mix.

“Ultimately, I was after a dark, cheeky glamour with the scent, maybe even a bit goth. I envisioned a kind of charming anti-hero or misunderstood villain, indulgent and unpredictable, but with a wink — the type of figure who doesn’t take themselves seriously but commits to the bit (a true chaotic neutral),” Yong tells TZR. “I think Joey (Rosin, my perfumer) nailed the juice. It’s darkly sweet in an ominous way like a deep purple nectar, smoky like cigarette ash, powdery like the smell of a makeup compact, and dries down to an earthy, leathery finale.”

Yong’s relationship with fragrance is way deeper than a creative vehicle to promote a book. It spans decades; dating back to her youth when she discovered the wonders of scent (and its practicality), which is chronicled in the essay “Smells Like Teen [Redacted]” where she talks about masking body odor with antiperspirant and how it evolved into an everlasting love of fragrance.

Today, Yong says she’s an obsessive smeller. “Smells have always had a very strong influence on my emotions, and that hasn’t changed at all,” she shares. “But the amazing thing about being a beauty editor is that I have access to fragrance in a way that enables my obsession. I wear different scents daily, depending on how I feel that day, how I want to feel, or what I want to project. It really does affect my mood. And like food, scent is such an indulgence that connects me to the experience of its context and time — it's a real memory-maker.”

Ahead, Yong details the process of making a fragrance, her all-time favorite perfume (yes, we made her choose), and the scent memories that make up her life.

The Art Of Making A Fragrance

“Fragrance gets very imaginative so you can really go places with what you’re trying to evoke. The hard part is narrowing it down. Logistically, it sucked. Sourcing vendors, negotiating cost and minimums, finding someone to screenprint the bottles and the cartons, and then hoping all the individual suppliers do their part, deliver quality work, and ship on time… I’ve developed white hairs, truly. And this was just ONE product. I can’t imagine what it’s like to run a brand. I never want to be a girlboss!”

The All-Time Favorite Fragrance

“One that always comes to mind when asked is Matiere Premiere’s Crystal Saffron. I first discovered it about two years ago, and I hadn’t been very familiar with saffron as a note before, but now I can’t get enough of it. It has this really unique ambiguous sensation — the smell itself has a shape to me. It makes me think of a glassy orb that’s been electrified. I smell the singe of that spark, the brittle texture of the glass surface, and its smooth contours as well. This doesn’t make sense probably, but that’s OK. I think it’s amazing when you find something that doesn’t make sense but continuously draws you toward it. Part of what I love about it is its undefinable quality. Each time I smell it can be a totally different experience of a new facet I notice.”

The Scent Of Hotness

“A sweaty white T-shirt, Old Spice, and sun-warmed skin.”

The Scent Of Confidence

“Peppermint gum — I had a very intimidating and brilliant college professor who was always chewing really strong peppermint nicotine gum and that scent stayed with me. Also, she was a close-talker.”

The Scent Of Creativity

“The smell of acrylic paint — or all scents of art supplies, really.”

The Scent Of Joy

“Freshly peeled citruses, over-ripe peaches, key lime pie, and sunscreen.”

The Scent Of Nostalgia

“The smell of dust warming when the radiator turns on at the beginning of every winter.”