Sulwhasoo’s New Collection Has Been Over 50 Years In The Making

Going to South Korea really is like taking a time machine to the future. Yes, there is the literal time difference (the country’s capital, Seoul, is 13 hours ahead of New York City), but the beauty scene really lives up to its reputation of being lightyears ahead of the US. While “salmon sperm” facials started making headlines stateside last summer (thank you, Kim Kardashian), the injections have been on Korean skin clinic menus for years. The same goes for exosome therapy, which has been at the forefront of the western regenerative skin care movement. Then there are the topical products inspired by these in-office treatments (microneedling serum anyone?) that are lining stores’ shelves. To sum it up: The dedication to innovation is why these brands’ products go viral on TikTok and inspire legions of copycats. But this particular mindset isn’t limited to emerging skin care lines — legacy brands are also on the same wavelength. I confirmed all of these aforementioned K-beauty myths to be true when I went took a 16-hour flight to Seoul this past October to get a sneak peek of Sulwhasoo’s new Concentrated Ginseng Collection.

This collection is designed to target major signs of aging like wrinkles and boost brightness and firmness. The lineup includes five brand new products (serum, ampoule, essence, toner, and eye cream), and two favorites with refreshed formulas (the Rejuvenating Cream and its rich version counterpart). The through-line of the collection is hero ingredient Korean Ginseng Actives, a result of the brand’s 60-plus years of consistent research on ginseng — an undertaking that ensures its formulas remain as effective and modern as possible.

Ahead, get all the details on Sulwhasoo’s new collection, along with what I learned from my time getting immersed in the power of ginseng.

Why Ginseng?

I was a bit familiar with the healing power of ginseng before I went to Korea. Growing up in the ‘90s, my mom would insist I take it — along with echinacea — to boost immunity whenever I felt a cold coming on. That said, ginseng has been used as a medicinal herb for around 2,000 years in East Asian culture. In Korea, the root vegetable is a wellness routine staple for its aforementioned immunity benefits, plus its ability to boost energy, improve cognitive function, and reduce inflammation. In fact, I was offered a ginseng immunity shot at Sulwhasoo’s head office and drank tea at The House of Sulwhasoo Bukchon, the brand’s flagship boutique. (The shot was zesty and felt like a jolt of caffeine, while the herbal tea was soothing and comforting.)

Ginseng’s impressive laundry list of health benefits is why Suh Sung-whan, founder of Sulwhasoo’s parent company Amorepacific, became fascinated by the ingredient growing up in Gaeseong, Korea, a city renowned for its ginseng cultivation. He began researching ginseng’s skin benefits of active ingredients in the 1960s, which led to the creation of the ABC Ginseng Cream in 1966, and the rest, as they say, is history.

“Used in teas, tonics, and topical treatments, it [ginseng] has been prized for its ability to restore vitality and balance in the body and skin,” confirms Dr. Eunice Park, M.D., a dual board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon and founder of Airem, a K-beauty medical aesthetic spa in New York City. “Korean royalty and scholars historically used ginseng-infused skin care to maintain a youthful glow, a practice that continues today in modern K-beauty formulations.”

The Role Of Ginseng In Sulwhasoo’s Concentrated Ginseng Collection

The scientists at the brand’s lab and research center told me the brand landed on its signature Korean Ginseng Actives (aka ginsenomics) through its extensive research. This is a rare saponin compound found in small quantities of the active ingredient that yields impressive bioactivity. Simply extracting it doesn’t produce enough to create mass volumes of skin care products, so Sulwhasoo created its own technology to convert and concentrate the ingredient simultaneously. The result? Enough ginseng actives to create an entire range of products. I also learned that Korean ginseng is uniquely potent due to the soil it grows in.

“Through ingredient research and studies, we discovered its ability to repair and strengthen damaged collagen,” Michelle Shieh, scientific communications senior manager — Amorepacific, says. “And when utilized in a formulation, we saw that it helps visibly improve skin elasticity, resulting in hydrated and radiant skin.”

For the new Concentrated Ginseng Collection, Shieh says they considered the growing impact climate change, environmental pollution, and lifestyle stress has on aging skin (aka inflammaging), and how ginseng can help counteract the effects. Along with Korean Ginseng Actives, the products are infused with supporting ingredients such as Ginseng Peptide and vitamins A and C. “It [the peptide] protects skin’s self-rejuvenating power from external stimuli and helps slow down collagen-degenerating signals,” Shieh explains. “It helps support the look of skin firmness and elasticity and synergistically enhancing the benefits of Korean Ginseng Actives. Moreover, we have added vitamin C derivatives, which is a gentler form of vitamin C that delivers lasting antioxidant protection.” Bonus: the ginseng also gives the products a subtle yet energizing earthy scent.

The star (and my personal favorite product) is arguably the Concentrated Ginseng Rejuvenating Cream, which has been refreshed for the collection. Now in its sixth generation, the moisturizer first launched as the ABC Ginseng Cream back in the ‘60s. This edition has been clinically proven to improve the look of wrinkles, plumpness, and the skin barrier after six weeks of continued use. According to Beauté Research SAS, it’s been the number one anti-aging cream in Korea for 10 years.

Ahead, a deep dive on the entire collection and my experience with the products.

Discover Sulwhasoo’s Concentrated Ginseng Collection