Despite The Rain, Balenciaga's Spring 2025 Show Went On

Thus far, the Cruise 2025 season has sailed through famed cities like Barcelona (Louis Vuitton), London (Gucci), and Marseille (Chanel), all hand-selected because of their respective significance or role in a label’s storied journey. While not technically for a cruise collection, the latest destination to be spotlighted is Shanghai, which hosted Balenciaga’s Spring 2025 show on the rooftop of the famed Museum of Art Pudong. Despite the torrential downpour, the evening setting on May 30 offered an idyllic view of the lighted cityscape, creating an instantly cool ambiance for Demna’s latest collection.

In addition to its status as a global financial hub, Shanghai — and China — hold personal significance to both Demna and the Balenciaga brand. The creative director presented his first haute couture line in the city back in 2021. Also, China houses more Balenciaga stores than any other country, making it a vital component to the company’s retail business. It’s understandable then that the French label opted to unveil this collection — which includes a fresh collab with activewear brand Under Armour — in this commerce epicenter.

Inspired by Shanghai’s cloud-skimming skyscrapers and sleek architecture, Denma’s latest showcased a variety of “super-elongated, vertical silhouettes,” including a parade of longline trench coats and blazers in moody palettes of black, charcoal gray, and chocolate brown. Always one to toy with extremes, over-the-top platforms were the look du jour for Spring 2025 — and another homage to the host city — including clunky leather combat boots and blown up sneakers. In the name of balance, these outsized shoes were paired otherwise basic looks to ensure the accessories were front and center. Boots were worn with tucked-in sweats or relaxed denim and topped off with boxy T-shirts while sneakers were coupled with loose workout shorts and track-like jackets.

As previously mentioned, Balenciaga’s latest partnership with Under Armour was neatly incorporated in the Spring 2025 collection. According to show notes, the sporty eight-piece collab marries the athletic label’s loved “fabrics and functionality,” with Denma’s penchant for volume and unexpected shapes. Standout items included a fitted color-blocked zip-up hoodie, windbreaker, and black leather statement belt.

Pattern play was also present, ranging from the subtle (houndstooth jackets and capes and oversized striped button-downs) to the more whimsical (ditzy floral and graphic printed dresses). Surrealism was another key component here, touched on again via accessories. Shoe boxes doubled as clutches, puffer jackets were transformed into totes, and chain bags were adorned with belt buckle clasps.

See all the highlights from the sporty — and rainy — show below.