The Mythology Of Bottega Veneta

It’s been one year since Creative Director Matthieu Blazy’s debut show for Bottega Veneta. And on February 25, the Belgian designer showcased a stellar fall/winter 2023 collection that outdid his last.

A favorite among the fashion set, Blazy’s continued vision of relaxed luxury was very much present in the 81 looks show, from the impeccable tailoring — some languid, others very much structured — to the almost uncatchable details, like the choice of woven leather for sock-shoes. While much of the clothing is lauded for its wearability and quality, there is most often a quirk in the design for the everyday pieces, a notable one being the grey suit with no opening or closure in the front of the “jacket”, only pockets.

But all that went down the runway was not so subtle. Take the black and white fringed coat dress or the leaf embossed leather pieces — examples of the symbiosis between the innovative mind of Blazy and the craftsmanship that is synonymous with the heritage brand.

While there was no theme but “a cacophony of influences,” according to the show notes, there certainly was a progression which informed the storyline. The model who opened the show was clad in a sheer white slip dress and aforementioned booties, conjuring up notions of sleep, along with the trio donned in Easter egg-hued floral lace cami sets. It then moved onto a series of looks reminiscent of fantastical creatures, ones you would only encounter in a dream — models dressed in mermaid-like skirts paired with fish scale turtlenecks, and gowns and coats with erupting plumes in saccharine shades of seafoam green and lavender. To then only be awakened and urged to start the day in a flawlessly constructed asymmetrically tied dress, a dress you may see one wearing in the northern towns of Italy.

As this is the close of Blazy’s ‘Italia’ trilogy of shows, references to major works of art from the country are apparent. A reinterpretation of Chloris and Flora from Botticelli’s Primavera was on display in the ethereal numbers with floral embroidery on cloud-like white fabrics. As well as the continued inspiration of the silhouette of Umberto Boccioni’s Unique Forms of Continuity in Space, present in pieces throughout the collection. “I loved the idea of the parade in Italy; a procession, a strange carnival, a crowd of people from anywhere and everywhere and yet somehow, they all fit and go in the same direction. I wanted to look at what makes people gather together in a place without hierarchy, where everyone is invited,” says Blazy.

While these references may resonate with the trained eye, many of Blazy’s followers connect with his work because they are undeniably eye-catching. One standout this season being the jelly pumps that, if it hasn’t already, will go viral as will some of the bags — Murano glass handle Sardine bag, anyone?

Ahead, find some of my favorites from Bottega Veneta’s fall/winter 2023 lineup that marks “the end of one part of the Bottega Veneta story and the beginning of another, of a new mythology.”