When you hear the word brooch, what first comes to mind? Perhaps the good old days of rummaging through your grandma’s jewelry box, which was always stocked with antique pins. Or maybe photos of the luxe iterations Queen Elizabeth II famously wore atop her polished outerwear? (She apparently owned a whopping 98 pin styles.) Though it’s been a minute — err, decades — since brooches were considered an of-the-moment piece, that’s quickly changing. In fact, as of late, designers are breathing new life into the age-old accent by presenting modern-day versions on the runways.
But before we dive into some of the recent brooch runway moments, let’s take a moment to brush up on the story behind decorative pins. “The history of brooches begins as early as the sixteenth century in the form of jeweled stomachers, which were removable, ornamented V-shaped bodice panels,” explains fashion historian and curator Michelle Tolini Finamore, Ph.D. The expert adds that if you look at portraits of royals (like Queen Elizabeth I and II) and Italian Renaissance women, you’ll notice pearls and gemstones intricately woven into their garments. “Over time, these panels morphed into brooches that covered the décolletage and eventually became a distinct jewelry form (“stomacher brooch” is still in use today!).”
Fashion historian and vintage seller Fiona Tedds notes that, once upon a time, around the 16th and 17th centuries, brooches were a sign of wealth, as the majority of styles were crafted from precious stones. “Oftentimes, they were used as a symbolic of stature within society, too,” she adds.
Though Finamore can’t say for certain why brooches are suddenly inundating the fashion scene, she does have some thoughts. “I think revival styles, such as that of Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli, are having an impact,” she says. “Digging into the history of ‘30s and ‘40s designs of Elsa Schiaparelli, Roseberry has continually filled the runway with models whose vibrant garments literally drip with surrealistic gems.” In short, the industry’s latest high-octane pins are heralding a return to the bold jewelry that reigned supreme during the aforementioned bygone eras, Finamore adds.
What’s more, the industry’s newfound fascination with brooches hit a fever pitch on the Fall/Winter 2024 runways. Exhibit A: The pin-heavy looks spotted at Miu Miu. Creative director and fashion arbiter Miuccia Prada decorated everything from collared mini dresses to doubled-breasted coats with a medley of exquisite embellishments. And over at Tory Burch, the brooch-covered mesh tops proved the accent isn't reserved for outerwear. Chanel also took an unexpected approach to the trend, sending models out in floppy, oversized hats with lavish brooches.
Street style stars also endorsed antique-looking brooches during fashion month this season. In Copenhagen, a guest rocked a crystal-encrusted “L” pin on the lapel of her structured jacket. Meanwhile, in New York, stylist and influencer Karen Blanchard elevated her tie-dye Altuzarra maxi skirt with a silver hand-shaped style. Also attending NYFW, writer Jalil Johnson embraced the trend by way of a bowling pin and ball piece.
Fashion month aside, brooches were out in full force at the Oscars on March 10. Past Lives director Celine Song, for one, accessorized her black blazer with a gold elephant style. Then there was Sandra Hüller, who stunned in a sculptural Schiaparelli gown, which was adorned with a keyhole brooch. Fashion-forward male actors, including Cillian Murphy and Robert Downey Jr., also emblazoned their pared-back suits with eye-catching pins.
Now, when it comes to shopping for brooches, Tedds says vintage is one way to go. According to the thrifting aficionado, these styles can ring in anywhere from $5 to $5,000. In terms of decades-old looks, rhinestones and diamonds are leading the charge; however, Tedds says bakelite pins are also returning with gusto. “It's an early form of plastic popularized in the ‘30s and ‘40s,” she says of the look. On the other hand, if you’re on the hunt for a new designer iteration, you’re sure to find plenty of worthy options from favored sites like Net-a-Porter and Farfetch.
Ready to discover various takes on brooches? Ahead, TZR culled 10 must-have styles on the market.
