Burberry's Fall Collection Takes An Elegant Approach To Outerwear

Since his inaugural collection with Burberry almost exactly a year ago, Daniel Lee has seemingly added anthropologist to his title as creative director, digging in to the brand’s (and London’s) DNA and using it to construct a new creation. His debut, for example, paid homage to Burberry’s early years at the turn of the 20th century as a technical outerwear brand, with models brandishing sleek tartan water bottles. For Spring/Summer 2024, Lee honed in on the label’s classic trench, reimagining it in a slimmer silhouette and with low-slung belt loop detailing. And for Burberry’s Fall/Winter 2024 show, which took place in London’s Victoria Park, signature outerwear was once again a point of focus, as well as classic handbags and boots — both of which are specialty categories of Lee’s, who is credited for Bottega Veneta’s viral Pouch clutch and Puddle boots, which were both introduced during his tenure as creative director.

“Burberry icons are evolved through shape and fabric, evoking a feeling of warmth, protection and outdoorsy elegance,” the official show notes explain, noting the collection is “inspired by the landscapes and people of the UK and Ireland.”

With the late Amy Winehouse’s soulful voice floating in the background, models (which included big names like Agyness Deyn, Naomi Campbell, Lily Donaldson, and Phoebe Philo’s daughter Maya Wigram) marched through the venue in heavily layered outerwear, which was mixed with cozy, 1970s-inspired materials like faux fur, fringe, and shag. According to a release, the autumn collection is intentionally centered around coats. “Burberry trenches appear in moleskin alongside duffle coats and field jackets,” it states. “Traditional craft and techniques from Donegal to Lochcarron inspire construction, fabric and detailing. Shearling, braided fringing and fleecy wool are cozy and tactile.”

Extra-long, chunky wool scarves styled and layered as a means to “protect,” hung around necks or in a balaclava style, with the ends nearly grazing the floor or peeking out from beneath roomy coats. Speaking of spacious separates, Lee has reinforced the return of the oversized hobo bag, with large leather versions of Burberry’s Knight Bag in earthy tones of sage, beige, and slate gray zipped open haphazardly. “Bags and shoes are functional in design with iconic Burberry motifs building upon our archival foundations,” it says on the show notes.

Functional footwear also came into play, with a new leg-hugging, thigh-high boot introduced alongside updated slouchy versions of the brand’s Saddle boot, both paired with everything from midi sweater dresses to glitzier tweed maxi gowns (modeled by Campbell no less). This meshing of technical and formal has been an ongoing formula throughout LFW, most recently demonstrated at Simone Rocha’s Fall/Winter 2024 presentation, where the Irish designer paired embellished Crocs with ball gowns.

Another trend that Lee is breathing new life into is the maxi skirt. While the separate has slowly come back into the fashion fold in waves over the last two years, it’s mostly been embraced in Y2K-inspired cargo and denim styles. Burberry introduced a more academia-inspired look that read very British, showcasing floor-length pleated skirts in tartan, wool, and leather.

Ahead see more of Lee’s cozy-yet-elegant take on fall dressing.