(Runway)
The Bustier Trend Is Dominating NYFW Spring/Summer 2024 Runways
Romance is in the air.
Although fall is just barely showing face, we’re already getting clear glimpses of spring thanks to the vibrant New York Fashion Week runways. And, according to our crystal ball, it’s going to be a very romantic season indeed. Yes, amidst the ruffled, gauzy skirts and glittering gowns, a very specific Victorian-inspired trend has been a notable presence over the past few days: the bustier.
To be clear, Bridgerton-esque corsets have been rampant for years now, since the Regencycore look exploded back in 2021. But the latest iterations read more modern garden party than 19th century cosplay. For starters, the look has expanded past the uniform cropped, strapless corset tops worn ad nauseam by every TikTok and Instagram fashion darling last year. Next season’s silhouettes are much more innovative in their detailing, design, color palettes, and textures.
That said, likely the most passionate (and literal) ode to the bustier was seen at Christian Siriano’s Sept 8 ballet-inspired presentation. The designer, celebrating his 15th anniversary show, made the structured, boned piece the foundation of his collection. There were many takes on the top, including youthful lace detailing and a more futuristic upside-down style, layered in interesting ways, over voluminous ball and slinky slip skirts (with a flirty sliver of hip bone peeping through), boxy blazers, and formal trouser shorts. Then came the corseted gowns, topped with strapless, color-blocked sweet-heart bodices as well as single-shoulder encrusted creations.
Collina Strada’s AI-assisted show featured Hillary Taymour’s fantastical, maximalist vision that read like a more sophisticated take on the collages you made in the fourth grade. Mix-and-match patterns and materials came together in a way that felt at once chaotic and cohesive (and oh-so Collina). The fanciful collection included floral-printed strapless bustier dresses with ethereal draped detailing and sheer, lace textures.
On a similar, yet more refined and streamlined, wavelength was Prabal Gurung, who also featured a one-shoulder bustier top in the all-white first look of his spring collection. Set against the backdrop of New York’s Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms State Park, the dreamy gathered, structured separate looked angelic paired with sheer, pleated parachute pants, matching open windbreaker, and accented with statement gold earrings.
And taking a more rustic-glamour approach on the bustier was Ralph Lauren, whose Sept 9 show was quite the star-studded affair, attended by everyone from Jennifer Lopez and Diane Keaton to Julianne Moore and Amanda Seyfried. The iconic designer sent models down the runway in sheer, printed corsets, dressed up with sleek pencil skirts and silky belted trousers. A denim, acid-wash version of the separate also appeared (harkening back to Lauren’s signature Americana vibe), topping a coordinated maxi skirt for a 2024 take on the Canadian tuxedo. So chic.
With 2024 just months away, you still have time to map out your style plan for the new year, and all signs are pointing to bustiers as the top essential for spring. Bookmark the looks above for future reference and be sure to be on the lookout for more inspiration as the rest of fashion month unfolds. The romantic vibes are sure to keep going.