(Runway)
Chanel Goes Sporty With Its Latest Cruise Collection
Hoodies and tweed are the combo we didn’t know we needed.
High up on the roof terrace of Marseille’s Cité Radieuse, a strong, unexpected wind blew on the evening of May 2, bringing with it some fresh energy for Chanel’s 2024/2025 Cruise collection. While last year brought a youthful, bubblegum pop essence — complete with leg warmers and pink sweatshirt dresses — this season is steering more seaside adventure. Perhaps it’s the influence of the upcoming 2024 Paris Olympics that took hold of creative director Virginie Viard (the Games’ sailing events will take place in the Marseille Marina). Whatever the source, it seems the sky-high presentation was an all-encompassing ode to the city’s status as “the pulsating heart of the Mediterranean,” as well as a water sport destination that attracts legions of travelers from across the globe.
The most literal ode to Marseille’s aquatic culture were the sea-inspired color palettes, patterns, and textures. Crochet skirt sets in grey, teal, and yellow resembled hues one might see along an ocean floor. Flowing silk dresses — in floor-sweeping and thigh-grazing mini iterations — featured a whimsical fish print. Gold chain fishing net-like necklaces and belts hung across necks and hips alike, embellished with symbols of marine life, including crabs, anchors, and pearls.
A stylish take on the city’s water sports culture came by way of platform terry cloth flip flops and rubber ballet flats, which Viard described as “scuba tuxedo” shoes in an interview with Vogue. The latter were a constant presence in the collection — signaling imminent virality — paired with everything from bow-bedecked wetsuits to mod-like shift dresses. Speaking of dresses, sleeveless hooded cotton minis read playful and casual, especially when splashed with patchwork front pockets and rosettes at the neck. Even the classic Chanel tweed suit got a sporty makeover, with models layering zip-up hoodies under their signature sets or donning hot pants under their oversized knit blazers, as if off to a garden brunch after a quick morning dip in the sea.
The easy luxury of the Mediterranean lifestyle was captured in the wave of flowing white eyelet dresses, dark denim sets, and straw porkpie hats. Otherwise simplistic silhouettes were made instantly glamorous with layered pearl neckwear and 3D florals along necklines and sleeves.
If you’ve been dreaming of lazy days in the French Riviera, Viard’s latest collection may be that final push to pull the trigger on booking a summer getaway ASAP. Ahead, our highlights from the seas-inspired presentation below.
