(Runway)
Dior’s Resort 2023 Show Will Convince You To Finally Book That European Vacation
Chiuri has your packing list ready.
The word resort can conjure up images of sandy beaches or snowy mountaintops, that feeling of escaping your day-to-day to immerse yourself in a completely new environment. For the avid travelers, this might mean going abroad and partaking in that country’s culture to absorb its history and customs. Such was the experience Maria Grazia Chiuri wanted to impart onto her guests at Dior’s Resort 2023 runway show. The house’s creative director brought all the fashion tastemakers to Seville in Spain, specifically to one of its most famous Spanish Renaissance style squares: Plaza de España.
The presentation opened up with flamenco dancers and singers, who helped set the stage and tone for the entire show. For those wondering why Chiuri chose Seville as her destination for Dior’s cruise collection, she shared in a press release that she was inspired by Carmen Amaya, a Spanish flamenco dancer who was the first dancer to wear men’s clothes in the 1950s. She was known as the “La Capitana,” for which the resort collection is named.
“With her freedom to dance that did not submit to any rule, she represented the essence of Flamenco,” reads the show notes. “An artist with singular, revolutionary movements, she was the first dancer in her field to dress in men’s clothing, combining power and fragility through her art. Expressing the soul of Spain, she continues to embody a conscious and plural femininity.”
Chiuri has a history at Dior of celebrating strong, powerful women and knocking against patriarchal society, so Amaya served as that ideal next chapter in Chiuri’s design journey. The first look to come down the runway was a clear nod to the mighty dancer. A model strode out in an embroidered black and white Manila shawl, worn over a white shirt, suspenders, and pants.
Manila shawls have a rich history in Europe, with it most commonly tied to flamenco dancers as part of their performance costumes. However — the fashion history buffs will appreciate this fact — the garment originally came from Canton, China and in the 16th century it was introduced via Spanish trade to Manila in the Philippines. (The capital was a Spanish colony at that time.) Then, the luxurious garment made its way to Andalusia and Mexico.
Shawls aside, Chiuri also gave nods to other popular pieces inspired by Seville’s fashion, from off-the-shoulder red and mustard yellow flamenco-inspired dresses to Andalusian horsemen’s pants. (This wasn’t Chiuri’s first time incorporating equestrian motifs into Dior’s seasonal lineup. You’ll recall her Resort 2019 runway show paid tribute to Mexican female rodeo riders and actually featured majestic-looking white horses as part of the act.)
Following along on the horse theme for Resort 2023, Chiuri released reiterations of the Saddle Bag (a Carrie Bradshaw favorite), as pictured below. The silhouette, which first experienced a major comeback in Dior’s Fall/Winter 2018 collection (thanks to Chiuri), has become one of the fashion house’s must-have products. Thus, for fans who are itching to hop on this handbag trend for 2022, you will surely appreciate the new upcoming designs. Elsewhere in the collection, you’ll be able to spot out fresh designs to Dior’s iconic Book Tote and bowling bag from its Vibe line.
Other references within the Resort 2023 collection, as the show notes reveal, gave a nod to the Duchess of Alba. She reportedly rode horses with Jackie Kennedy while wearing a short jacket, high-waisted pants and a wide-brimmed hat. One could imagine she wore a similar outfit to the one pictured above, though if the duchess carried a Saddle bag to her rides is unknown.
History lesson aside, even if you did not read up on Chiuri’s behind-the-scenes inspiration for Dior’s new collection, there are many pieces to appreciate simply because they reflect the DNA of the house’s design codes. You will find familiarity in the lineup’s tailored blazers and flouncy high-waisted skirt sets, the black velvet Bar jacket with embroidered gold threads, as well as the strapless bustier gowns. Although this time, the dresses displayed words such as “fuego” and “alma,” on the front, which translates to fire and soul, respectively.
With 110 looks in Dior’s Resort 2023 collection, there are many outfits to take in but, below, you’ll find TZR’s highlight reel of several standout looks. The runway pieces, ahead, will serve as a reminder for you to finally book that European vacation to Seville (or elsewhere) this summer.
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