Fendi’s Baguette. Gucci’s Jackie. Hermés’ Kelly. These tried-and-true designer bags have been beloved for decades, and, at this point, it’s safe to say they’ll never leave the fashion scene. But if you’re someone who also appreciates fresh, one-of-a-kind silhouettes, look no further than the industry’s emerging handbag brands. Though still fairly under the radar, these newcomers are quickly amassing a cult following. And namesake designer Laura Amstein has a theory why: “Our customers seek out small niche brands they can relate to, feel a part of, and see growing slowly and organically.”
Indeed, for fashion aficionados, there’s something so special about watching a label’s journey from day one. Perhaps, for instance, you’ve been tuned into celebrity-loved brand Dentro’s impressive rise to fame. “I started working on Dentro during the pandemic, and at that moment, I had more time to myself and fewer freelance clients,” explains founder and fashion industry vet Isa Kauffman, who previously held positions at industry heavy-hitters like Prada, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, and Acne Studios. “I wanted to use my experience working with other luxury brands to create bags with high craftsmanship and design combined.” She did just that, considering the styles are now loved by A-listers like Kylie Jenner (who wore the Savvas style way back in Jan. 2023), FKA Twigs (seen wearing the Anona Paper last Nov. 2023), and Charli XCX (also pictured in June 2024 with the Savvas silhouette).
On the opposite end of the spectrum, some creatives behind the new crop of handbag labels had little to no previous design experience. One such individual is Cleo Camp, the brainchild of Cleo. A set designer living in Los Angeles, Camp turned to sewing amid heartbreak. “I designed the Cleo Bag in my living room during what I infamously refer to as my ‘breakup summer’ last year,” she tells TZR. “I had found myself at a shoemaker’s studio clear-out where I bought a pile of leather scraps, and I started filling heartbroken hours sewing silver bags.” Now, she’s spotting women out and about everywhere sporting her brand’s carryalls.
Read on to learn more about five emerging handbag labels poised to be at the forefront of fashion — just wait.
Dentro
Kauffman’s design vision is truly one of a kind. She came up with the idea of an inside-out bag, which she says “isn’t objectively beautiful on the outside and hides the ‘real’ bag on the inside with proper finishing.” To put it simply, the silhouettes expose details that are traditionally found in the interior of a bag, such as padding and loose threads. One example is the brand’s signature Otto look, which draws inspiration from vintage doctors’ bags with its rectangular shape and exposed foam. “The baguette Savvas has also grown to be the signature due to its success,” Kauffman adds about the shoulder bag, which features a hanging rope and long threads. “The brand plays on basic archetypes of bags, so for me, it was important to have the everyday shoulder style.”
LŪRA
Longtime friends and now business partners Yvonne Roe and Sandra Planeta are behind LŪRA, a minimalist bag brand founded in 2020. “Yvonne and I had worked together for decades, from Hong Kong to New York to Europe, each of us building our careers in luxury fashion and accessories,” Planeta tells TZR. “We were at a point in our lives where we felt ready to embark on something truly significant — a project that would not only reflect our skills but also our values and vision for the future.”
The result? A collection of timeless bespoke leather carryalls. “Our hand-crafted products, made with the highest Italian quality, are available in 12 sumptuous colors and have been carefully developed to meet the needs of both specific and multiple usages, accompanying you seamlessly throughout your day,” says Planeta. In addition to its top-notch craftsmanship, each LŪRA bag features a Digital ID. “With our LŪRA App, we provide you with detailed insights into your bag’s history, including its creation date, production location, and the materials and suppliers involved,” the co-founder notes. The Digital ID also functions as an authentication certificate for the piece.
Chora
Helsinki-based leather goods brand Chora — bags, shoes, and gloves included — was born in 2022. Made by a small group of creatives, according to the label’s website, it sources design inspiration from its native city and neighboring cultures. Chora’s assortment of cool carryalls boasts edgy, distinct details like braiding and metal chains. Plus, the colors run the gamut from stark white to fiery red — meaning, there’s a shade for everyone. Influencers like Reese Blutstein and Maria Bernad and are already fans of Chora, so you know it’ll become an Instagram-favorite brand in no time.
Cleo
Though Cleo is only one year old, it’s making impressive strides. To wit, the brand’s inaugural sale at Los Angeles studio Melet Mercantile completely sold out, and things really snowballed from there. “In six months, I made and sold 300 bags on my own, and I haven’t stopped sewing since,” says Camp, who adds that the brand’s hallmark silhouette is the slouchy Cleo Bag, which was first sold in silver (as the founder’s wise stepmom always told her that the metallic goes with everything). From there, she released the style in dark blue denim, pink metallic, cream leather, and brown suede.
Amstein
Prior to launching Amstein in 2021, the eponymous designer had stints at leading fashion houses, including Loewe, JW Anderson, and Burberry. “I’ve always been a playful hands-on designer, and over the years, I refined my own design ethos, process, and aesthetic,” she explains about using her past experience to build the London-based label. “Designing for luxury leather goods brands in the UK and abroad played a critical part in this. Working with the ultimate expert master craftspeople was an invaluable experience that absolutely elevated my craft.” As such, the designer says creating Amstein allowed her to focus on a slower small-scale path while also championing modern British craftsmanship along the way.
Currently, Amstein offers two silhouettes: the Block and Chatter bags. “The Block is made by wet forming leather — a hands-on process of wetting, shaping, and drying leather over wood blocks,” explains Amstein. “I wanted to take this traditional technique and create a modern piece of design for today, one that celebrates playful process, bold shape, and quality material.” Meanwhile, the Chatter style is a snappy pouch that easily folds.
