(Designers)
Glenn Martens Will Follow John Galliano As Maison Margiela’s Creative Director
Effective immediately.
When it’s time to hire a new creative director, some labels take months to fill the coveted spot. In late 2024, Chanel, for instance, appointed head designer Matthieu Blazy seven months after Virginie Viard’s shocking departure. On the other hand, some ateliers will announce the next creative director ASAP, in an effort to halt the industry’s gossip mill. Maison Margiela, in particular, took the latter route. On Jan. 29 — less than two months after John Galliano left his respective post — the brand confirmed Glenn Martens as his replacement, effective immediately.
Instead of presenting a collection at Haute Couture Week Spring/Summer 2025, the label shared the news with Vogue. “I have worked with Glenn for years, I have witnessed his talent, and I know what he is capable of,” OTB chairman Renzo Rosso told Vogue. “After Martin, who gave life to the Maison and its unique Artisanal line, and John, who made it the most cutting-edge couture house in the world, I am proud to have a third couturier at its helm.” Rosso also noted the similarities between Martens and the house’s founder. For one, they both studied at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts. “I feel extremely honored to join the amazing Maison Margiela, a truly unique house that has been inspiring the world for decades,” Martens told Vogue.
Shockingly, Martens will remain creative director of Diesel in Milan during his time at Maison Margiela. While this might surprise fashion enthusiasts, this aligns with his previous experience: He simultaneously led Diesel and Y/Project for four years. However, he stepped down from Y/Project in Sept. 2024, following 11 years. The independent label also shut its doors this month.
If you’re unfamiliar with Martens’ career, here’s a quick rundown. Shortly after he graduated first in his class in 2008, Martens was offered a junior designer position at Jean Paul Gaultier. He worked on the women’s pre-collection and the brand’s menswear label, G2. “Gaultier taught me: why would I ever go into such an intense industry if I cannot make it fun for me and the people I work with?” Martens recently told System Magazine. In 2012, he launched his eponymous label, which ran for three seasons before he took over at Y/Project. During his time at Y/Project, the Rick Owens-inspired menswear label made headlines numerous times for abstract denim, deconstructed athleisure, and thigh-high UGG boots, made famous by Rihanna at Coachella.
In 2020, Martens earned the creative director role at Diesel. According to Vogue, he has “massively boosted the brand’s Gen Z customer base, with 16 to 25-year-olds now representing 36 percent of sales.” What started as a jeans brand evolved into a leader in erotic, provocative ensembles, sustainable practices, and of course, innovative denim under Martens. Some of his most viral moments? The 24-hour livestream of Diesel’s studio; his debut Spring/Summer 2022 collection shown via short film; and his reimagining of the signature 2000s “D” logo.
It’s unclear when Martens will take the Maison Margiela stage for the first time, but since his appointment is effective immediately, it will likely be during the Spring/Summer 2026 circuit in Sept. 2025. So, stay tuned to TZR for updates.
