Gucci's Fall Show Was Sexy Italian Dressing At Its Finest

Following the grandiose 20-year reign of Alessandro Michele, one might assume that Gucci’s newly appointed creative director Sabato De Sarno would want to make a thunderous first impression. But, as evidenced by his inaugural collection in September 2023, such has not been the case. Instead, the Valentino alum has been more thoughtful and intentional in his approach to changing the Gucci vessel’s direction. And, like any wise captain, he understands that often, it’s the subtle shifts in movement and sleight of hand that make the most poignant and enduring impact. As it states in the show notes for Gucci’s new Fall/Winter 2024 collection: “Every act represents a meticulous journey in which each gesture can change the final result.” So in keeping with this strategic ripple effect, De Sarno’s latest “gesture” materializes his greater vision for the heritage label — and it’s colorful.

Yes, the designer’s latest was certainly a departure from — or, rather, an expansion of — the aforementioned debut Spring/Summer 2024 collection, which consisted widely of sexy, thigh-grazing silhouettes in muted tones of navy, black, and slate gray. For Fall, De Sarno brings more shade play into the mix. Micro shorts, leather trenches, and clutched top handle bags were all set against a varied palette that ranged from candied shades of limoncello and periwinkle blue to earthier “ugly” tones like mustard and artichoke. A common color thread that neatly ties the previous season to the current is the rich bordeaux red that is now the brand’s signature, which the designer has named ancora (Italian for “again”). In a recent January 2024 interview for Vogue, De Sarno explained his greater intention for the color: Its repetitious meaning evokes a sense of insatiability, “when you kiss someone that you like and you don’t want to stop doing it.”

Smoldering Italian vibes is another through line in this new era of Gucci, coming by way of sheer, boudoir-inspired styles, plunging necklines, body-hugging silhouettes, and a heaping dose of leg-exposure. But De Sarno’s take on sensuality has a knowing wink. Up-to-there hot pants are balanced with oversized wool coats and thigh-high leather riding boots, which tie back to the brand’s equestrian roots and feature an elongated horsebit detail, also seen on the platform loafers that returned from last season.

Expanses of décolletage were accented with embellished chokers, an accessory trend De Sarno seems to be banking on for the latter half of the year. Even the aforementioned outerwear had a touch of sensuality courtesy of cinched, belted waists and clavicle-revealing necklines. The new Gucci girl is sexy, to be sure, but she knows how to harness said sexuality, unleashing it only to the very lucky.

Ahead, see the highlights of De Sarno’s latest collection for Gucci, in all its sultry glory.