(Runway)
Gucci's Spring/Summer 2025 Show Was So Mod-Coded
It was a ‘60s revival.
It’s been one year since Sabato De Sarno debuted his inaugural collection as Gucci’s creative director, a subtle shift from the bombastic spectacle that encompassed predecessor Alessandro Michele’s reign. Over the past 12 months, each show has ushered in a more subtle, sexier depiction of Italian magnetism, complete with leg-baring and form-fitting silhouettes that celebrate the human figure. The designer’s vision continues to unfold for the house’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, which took place at the Triennale Milano, but this time around, the approach is decidedly more casual, demonstrating that even in the most simplistic of styles, Italian charm cannot be denied.
“A year later, this collection shows an accomplished journey of construction,” says De Sarno in show notes. “Moment after moment, I have built my ideas for Gucci. A casual grandeur that takes shape through my obsessions — tailoring, lingerie, leather, 60’s silhouettes, all combined with the tireless exploration of the heritage of this brand — and always with an irreverent attitude.”
Said irreverence was particularly evident in baggy, belted denim looks, topped with easy white tank tops and floor-sweeping outerwear. Formal, tailored suiting was eschewed and swapped for laid-back trousers and zip-up jackets as well as barely-there short sets in fluorescent color ways.
De Sarno’s love for nostalgia came into play with the aforementioned mod-inspired playsuits. Co-ords featured micro-mini skirts with slightly puffed waistlines and matching cropped jackets and tanks. Vibrant leather thigh-grazing dresses, a regular on De Sarno runways this past year, came down the runway in neon green.
A key element of interest was in the accessories. The arguable stars of the show, De Sarno honored Gucci’s past and future with his offerings. The iconic Bamboo 1947 handle bag was spotlighted, reimagined in one-of-a-kind styles by Japanese artists “as part of a collaborative project to celebrate 60 years of Gucci in Japan.” The bamboo detailing also made its way to the mini silhouettes and Gucci 73 bags alternated on the runway.
The label’s signature Horsebit, widely known as the key element on Gucci’s loafers, was featured on a new flat, ‘60s-inspired boot, made of soft leather that hugged the calves and hit just below the knees. Worn with everything from lacy, sheer slip dresses to prim skirt sets, the versatile footwear has all the viral makings of the fur-lined mules that dominated for most of the 2010s.
Ahead, see all the highlights from Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2025 runway show.
