The Latest Hermès Collection Gives Timeless Fall Staples Some Edge

As the artistic director of one the most classic and understated labels in the industry, it’s hard to picture Hermès’ Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski as a quirky Britpop-loving 20-something. And yet, it is the truth. In fact, in a 2022 interview with Harper’s Bazaar the French-born creative described her style as a bright-eyed fashion student at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Belgium as “sort of techno, with mystique.” Some decades down the line, Vanhée-Cybulski has evolved that free-wheeling aesthetic into something more polished... but the edge is still there. Mixed within her streamlined creations for the French house, at which she’s served since 2014, spurts of rebellion from the brand’s otherwise traditional design codes help propel its legacy forward. Hermés’ Fall/Winter 2024 collection was a prime example of this as unexpected textures, bold colors, and intricate metal accents elevated the leather-heavy lineup.

Capturing the atmospheric romance of a rainy day in Paris, the Hermés presentation on March 2 was set against a dramatic downpour hitting sections of a winding runway. Further leaning into the theme of a woman caught in an unexpected storm, the models’ hair was seemingly damp and slicked back; their makeup was minimal save for some haphazardly applied mascara. They were dressed in monochromatic looks — set in shades of rich burgundy, scarlet red, taupe, and a surprising buttery yellow — that seemed unremarkable at first glance. But upon closer inspection, subtle detailing brought made each one feel both timeless and modern.

Indeed, Vanhée-Cybulski’s quest for balance of old and new has never been more evident. “They are archetypes, maybe the most boring clothes on earth, but I want to kind of bring this surprising creativity to them,” she told Vogue last year when explaining her approach to design.

Hardware played a pivotal role in the line-up: There were the tiny grommets that lined jackets and dresses, and dotted the occasional lapel. High-waisted leather midi skirts were designed with exposed frontal zippers that started at the top and cheekily hung from the slit, inviting sexier adjustments at any point. Sleeveless moto vests, fitted with a slight peplum waist, were fastened at the bottom with three mini buckles (which complemented the heavy metal cuffs adorning the models’ wrists). Clunky knee-high boots got a similar treatment, featured roomy shafts with exaggerated sole-to-knee zippering and buckling at the ankle — an interesting cross between a riding boot and biker style.

Vanhée-Cybulski’s penchant for layering and draping was also apparent. One jacket featured extra-long pile fur lapels that hung like delicate silk down the front, swishing over skintight riding pants. Outsized, boxy pea-style coats with exaggerated plush collars hovered over sleek pencil skirts. Leather trench coats were stacked on coordinating boiler suits (the latter could very well trigger a buzzy new trend for the fall season). Luxe printed silks also got in on the action, by way of peasant-style midi dresses, layered with coordinating scarves, tied loosely at the neck and waist.

Ahead, see the highlights from the moody new Hermés collection. Mystique, indeed.