Hermès Lets Loose In The City That Never Sleeps

Taxi cab yellow. Traffic light red. These were the bold, clashing colors that made up the first look on model Anok Yai who walked down the runway at Hermès’ second chapter to its Fall/Winter 2024 show (the first was shown in Paris this past March). New York City and the colorful details that make up this vibrant 8 million-plus populated destination was a source of inspiration to Artistic Director of Women’s Ready-to-Wear Nadège Vanhée. So, naturally, it was the ideal location to present the collection.

On a hot and humid Thursday evening, VIP clients, editors, and tastemakers gathered at Pier 36, a large, cavernous event venue situated along the East River. The space was staged with traffic lights — a reminder of the daily hustle and bustle of the city that never sleeps — and later transformed to a stage where Caroline Polachek, Rahill, and Honey Dijon performed. There were also bars offering an array of delicacies from caviar to oyster and pasta from NYC hotspot Carbone. This was Hermès’ version of the New York club scene, and truly a high-brow one at that.

The French maison’s attention to detail and adherence to quality have always been the pillars of the brand. And this collection was no exception. But there was an air of defiance, free-spirit in the manner of styling and silhouette of accessories. There were Kelly bags in the form of backpacks and belt bags, stacks of jewelry on each model’s wrists, and layering of belts. In terms of clothing, the shock of colors from the very first look set the stage for what was to come. Bright rosette turtlenecks layered under silk blouses and bomber jackets, a burnt orange jumpsuit in the the most buttery of leathers, and a long knit cardigan in the house’s Rocabar motif.

For the Hermès aficionado, there were the expected palettes of reserved neutrals and traditional designs, too. A black shaved shearling overcoat, toffee-colored quilted bomber jacket and flared leather pants, workman shirt in canvas with matching coat and pants, and, my favorite, the zip-up leather overalls.

For the New York City woman, who often looks to her European counterparts when it comes to inspiration, Vanhée’s amalgamation of the French codes of dressing and buzzing New York energy were skillfully combined in this collection, offering the women who have been following Vanhée during her 10-year tenure at Hermès something very much to look forward to come fall.