The Idyllic & Enigmatic Appeal Of Loewe’s Latest Collection

To watch a Loewe show under the direction of Jonathan Anderson is to enter a sort of sartorial uncanny valley with more questions than answers. Is that cardigan really a cardigan or does its elongated proportions and lack of arm holes make it something completely different? Does that dress count as a dress if it’s more flower than fabric? His strength lies in taking the mundane and familiar and turning it into something visually arresting and weird; and better yet, making the finished product attractive enough that people will shell out big money to actually wear it. In many respects, his Fall/Winter 2024 collection for the Spanish brand follows this foolproof formula, with what I would posit was an even greater emphasis on approachability than usual.

Based around the bucolic work of 20th century painter Albert York, there were breezy gingham short and blouse sets (adorable together but easy enough to remix with other pieces), dreamy double breasted coats, and funky floral embellished motorcycle boots — the sort of crowd-pleasing pieces that I imagine casual fashion enthusiasts could easily integrate into their wardrobes with minimal styling angst. When an elegant white gown floated down at one point, all I could think about was which quirky character actor-turned-breakout star (Greta Lee? Aubrey Plaza?) would land on a best dressed list while wearing it. Even the extra-long blazers and denim-cum-hammer pants hybrids, while arranged in purposefully striking and strange ways, could be boiled down to a statement flourish with the help of a simple T-shirt or turtleneck.

This attention to how real people get dressed — or at least a twisted, funhouse mirror version of it — seems to be something that’s been on Anderson’s mind as of late. You can especially see it in both his super-simplified Spring/Summer 2024 collection and the cheeky line-up he debuted for his self-named label at London Fashion Week two weeks ago. Inspired by British small town fashion seen in the vintage British sitcom The Last Summer Of Wine, the pieces seemed to be a romanticized homage to what someone might put on their body if they aren’t posing for the cameras at a fancy fashion event.

But die-hard Anderson fans, don’t worry: If you came here looking for the kind of clothing your non-industry friends hate and you smugly know they just don’t understand, there was some of that, too. Long sleeve shift dresses, complete with fin-like protrusions (one even included a ye olde creepy-cool dog portrait) completely eclipsed the form of the models who wore them. The finished silhouette, if backlit, would create a sort of hulking alien-like form atop skinny legs. There were also a number of billowing, balloon leg pants and artfully draped blouses held in place by thick asymmetrical belts that, while not completely in left field, will require a certain level of dedication to pull off. However, if the legions of fans packing the venue today were any indication, there will be plenty of people out there willing to put in the effort.

Scroll ahead for more key looks from the show.