London Fashion Week’s Most Compelling Trends Have Us Counting The Days Until Fall

This was a big year for London Fashion Week. The bi-annual event celebrated its 40th anniversary on the industry’s official calendar, although the British capital has stylistically been relevant for much longer. After all, who other than Big Ben can we thank for giving us mod, punk, and an unnamed, but enduring, quirky English girl look defined by flouncy tea dresses and twee hats? This question, naturally, is rhetorical. But should you want further evidence of the city’s eclectic hodgepodge of sartorial tribes, look no further than the trends on the runway this Fall/Winter 2024 season. Inventive and far-reaching, the themes were varied enough to speak to a wide range of wardrobe sensibilities.

At Molly Goddard, true to usual form, the overarching look was all frou and flounce. However, where perhaps the label might balance a bouncy tulle skirt with a slimmer top, this collection was all about playing up the drama of oversized proportions. Silhouette was also a key component at Simone Rocha, who presented more than a few designs with a dramatically long trailing piece of fabric in the back — a supremely modern and cheeky take, in my opinion, on the traditional train. And JW Anderson seems to have resurrected car wash skirts from the late 2010s by making the strips of material more like party streamers (think candy brights and floral appliqués) than mop-like tendrils.

Below, more on how these standout shows play into the larger concepts of the season thus far, and other key looks destined for your social media feed.

Ace In The Hole(s)

For a less expected way to show some skin, consider the strategic slash details seen all over the catwalk. At Ahluwalia and Fashion East, there were twin cut-outs on either side of the neckline — such a fun alternative to full-on cleavage — and Mark Fast went for silver pants with a risqué reveal of each thigh.

What Lies Beneath

Picking up where NYFW’s sheer-on-sheer moment left off, several brands served up captivating pieces made from different fabrics layered together. Preen by Thornton Bregazzi went for a marabou feather mini with a gauzy overlay, while Bora Asku crafted a romantic confection out of knit and lace textures. Huishan Zhang, whose show was inspired by cinematic legends Ingrid Bergman and Anna Magnani, took a satin skirt suit up a level by adding mesh material on top.

Gettin’ Biggy With It

We’ve had a few straight seasons of all things tight and skimpy. But now it seems some houses are moving in the opposite direction: Some styles at London were so large and voluminous they entirely mask and redraw the lines of one’s body. Molly Goddard did this by way of roomy peasant tops and ball skirts (not to mention a boing-y cupcake mini); on the other hand, Roksanda went for a column dress covered by a giant bell-like cape. And Richard Quinn sent a royal purple dress down that the runway covered in ruffles full and frilly enough to conceal the entire model save for her head.

All Aboard

The most dramatic entrances (and exits) made this coming autumn will likely be from those wearing the new evening standard du jour: a dress or top with a long and narrow train in the back. For something party-ready, check out the updated Princess Diana “revenge” mini at David Koma; formal wear-wise, Erdem’s elegant grey skirt set — complete with fringe-y embellishment — or Simone Rocha’s bow-bedecked jacket and midi are winning ways to go.

Now Streaming

Swishy skirts — championed this week by Burberry, Emilia Wickstead, JW Anderson — feel like such a refreshing alternative to a sheer slip. After all: They still offer a thrilling reveal of bare legs, but are way more fun on the dance floor.

Off To The Laces

Threaded up details took on several forms, from corset-like cinching (at Di Petsa and Dilara Findikoglu) to the sort of tied-front accent one might see on a footballer’s pants (KNWLS). Either way, the look feels supremely sexy, but in a edgy and daring way.

Wrap Genius

No scarf? No problem. Simply cue a from the styling at shows like 16Arlington, Paolo Carzana, and Eudon Choi and DIY your own with a sweater — or particularly snuggly jacket — instead.