(Runway)
Louis Vuitton’s Cruise Show Was Inspired By Its Barcelona Backdrop
Bring on the bolero hats.
Nicolas Ghesquière has a soft spot for Barcelona. The French designer has selected the historic Spanish city as the location du jour for a series of major events this season, starting with Louis Vuitton’s Cruise 2025 show, which took place at Antoni Gaudí’s mosaic-covered Park Güell (a fitting choice for the architecture-loving Ghesquière) on May 23. The show is a warm-up of sorts, kicking of a summer-long extravaganza that includes a pop-up LV kiosk and event, educational programing, and the grand finale, the sailing extravaganza also known as the Louis Vuitton 37th America’s Cup on August 22. In a Feb 27 interview with Women’s Wear Daily, Pietro Beccari, chairman and chief executive officer of Louis Vuitton, predicted the latest Cruise collection would “capture Louis Vuitton’s longstanding relationship with Barcelona and the Catalan region in the most ultimate way.”
It seems he made good on his promise, as the collection and set (designed by James Chinlund) tapped into the drama of the cultural epicenter, from the tilted bolero hats to the caped outerwear, lace-covered gowns, and ruffled skirts. Indeed, Spain’s Old World romantic influence was splattered all over the brand’s latest installment, blended expertly with modern and futuristic elements — another signature strategy of Ghesquière — like prismatic shield sunglasses, light-catching patent footwear, and oversized, armor-like blazers with rounded statement shoulders.
The burgeoning bubble skirt, which has been quietly hitting runways this past year, got the Louis Vuitton treatment. Ballooned mini dresses and skirts featuring the puffy bottom were set against moody colorways. In fact, Ghesquière took the buzzy look a step further, of course, showcasing blown-up, cropped takes on jodhpur pants, which were also showcased not too long ago in Altuzarra’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection. For his most recent take, the French designer styles the bubbled long shorts into thigh-high riding boots, topped with a belted accordion-style strapless top for a sleek finish.
Accessories were a strong focal point for the Cruise 2025 collection. In addition to the aforementioned wide-brimmed hats and space-age sunnies, sleek leather belt bags with criss-cross detailing, wide waist sashes, large fan-inspired brooches, and fringed and iridescent booties were constant throughout the 20-minute procession.
As a whole, the collection embraced a predominantly neutral palette that ranged — and started — from soft white, beige, and heather gray to deeper tones of charcoal, navy, black, and silver. Pops of color and metallics snuck in via draped statement blouses, studded waist belts, and a new structured pouch handbag that was shown in a vibrant yellow hue. Playful touches also came in print form, with lighthearted polka dot and check patterns shown on dresses and suiting.
Ahead, TZR’s highlights of Louis Vuitton’s vacation-forward collection.