(Runway)
Milan Fashion Week’s Biggest Trends Expand On Fashion Canon
New ideas and refreshed classics.
That’s a wrap on Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2023! Over the past six days, esteemed designers provided the fashion world with sartorial highlights to last a lifetime — or, you know, at least the next few months. Take Bottega Veneta’s Creative Director Matthieu Blazy, who proved (again) that he’s a force to be reckoned with by presenting a staggering 81 looks, all of which were incredibly chic. And, of course, there was a lot of chit-chat leading up to Gucci’s show, as it was the first runway following Alessandro Michele’s sudden departure in November. And while his absence was surely felt, the collection didn’t disappoint; it was a delightful mix of bold, over-the-top styles and subtle nods to the label’s storied Tom Ford era. And these key moments are just scratching the surface — the week was also full of zeitgeist-shaping trends.
One theme that stood out? A major emphasis on new-and-improved suiting. This season, designers reimagined 9-to-5 staples by way of surprisingly elevated cold-shoulder blazers (Fendi), crisp white button-down dresses (Prada), and polished briefs (Ferragamo). Sure, some of these slightly risqué takes on work dressing may not fly in your office — but perhaps you might consider wearing them to weekday dinner or event.
Moreover, there were adventurous looks that took attendees — and those viewing behind a smartphone screen at home — by surprise. For one, pant skirt-hybrids took center stage this week, with Fendi leading the pack. The powerhouse brand sent models down the runways wearing pleated skirts sewn on slouchy trousers in colors shades from hot pink to subdued gray. Other labels, like Blumarine and Andreadamo, followed suit, demonstrating their own take on the emerging silhouette. In the same playful vein, there were graphic tees aplenty on the runways, seen in the form of Hot Topic-esque band tees (MSGM) and preppy polos (Stella Jean). And Jil Sander’s sweet fruit motif was the cherry on top of its striking collection — pun intended.
Keep reading below for a full breakdown of MFW’s biggest trends.
Knot Your Average Look
Sometimes, the simplest of details can make the biggest impact. Such is the case with knots, which were prominent this week. MSGM and Sportmax enlivened understated dresses with a medley of twisted-up fabric, while Bottega Veneta incorporated a bow-looking detail on an ankle-length dress. Want to get in on the look ASAP? Try a DIY approach by knotting an oversized tee or flowy dress. There you go — you’re already ahead of the curve.
Pocket Science
You can leave your bag at home — fall’s pocket-heavy styles have more than enough room to house all your daily necessities (think wallet, keys, AirPods, and your favorite tube of lipstick). If you’ve been embracing the roomy cargo pant trend and are game for something a smidge more daring, try skin-tight pants à la Diesel. Then there was Prada, who went with an autumn-favorite wool cape featuring four pockets front and center. And consider tapping into two trends at once with GCDS’ pocket-happy maxi skirt.
50 Shades Of Gray
Thought gray was boring? It’s time to change your mindset. Thanks to Italian designers, the subdued hue has never held more possibility. Take notes from Fendi and Ferragamo and incorporate sharp separates into your office uniform, or follow Gucci’s lead and test-drive a sleeveless blazer and slouchy trousers.
Rise & Shine
The year’s metallic trend is picking up steam, as illustrated on the Milanese runways. At Ferragamo and Blumarine, body-hugging fits took the lead. But for a cozier take on the style, look to Giorgio Armani, who presented a silky PJ-looking set. Tip: Try working the gleaming pieces into your daytime uniform. Because, honestly, it would be a shame to not allow the lustrous pieces to shine bright in the light.
Buckle Up
Much like the hardware trend that dominated NYFW, Italian labels are amping up otherwise pared-back styles by way of edgy buckles. Some brands like Moschino opted for one XXL belt, while others like Philipp Plein and Blumarine showcased a bevy of small-but-mighty straps.
Snake News
Though python print never really goes out of style, the motif is shaping up to be bigger than ever next autumn. TZR's favorite takes on the slithery pattern? Sportmax and Andreadamo's sleek jackets, and Marco Rambaldi polished blouse.
Give ‘Em The Cold Shoulder
Remember when cold-shoulder tops reached peak popularity in the late ‘00s? Well, according to designers like Fendi, Del Core, and Marco Rambaldi, the look is due for a revival. Yes, really. Whatever your stance may on the skin-revealing top, there’s no denying it’s back on the rise.
Best Of Both Worlds
Pant skirt-hybrids may sound strange in theory, but they are actually such a cool and easy way to make your outfits more interesting. Need further proof? Look to some buzzy names who signed off on the intriguing look, including Fendi, Andreadamo, and Blumarine.
Taking Cover
Hoods are, obviously, nothing cutting edge; however, don't underestimate the power of the shielding style. Forgot an umbrella? Turn to a hooded jacket. Need an extra layer of warmth? A knit hoodie is your best friend. Consider adding a few iterations to your autumn lineup — you'll thank us later.
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