The Trends At MFW Were All Over The Map

If New York and London are sartorial appetizers and first courses for fashion month, Milan is arguably a main. With iconic designers like Gucci, Versace, Fendi, and Moschino on the roster, the six-day event is an extravaganza of Italian style in all its brazen glory. And while MFW can typically be counted on for sexy silhouettes and meticulous craftsmanship, the spring/summer 2025 season kicked things up several notches. Designers took the creativity to another level, playing in fresh textures, finishes, and even dimensions and eras.

At Bottega Veneta, for instance, Creative Director Matthieu Blazy took attendees down the rabbit hole into a whimsical nostalgic world complete with animal bean bag chairs, kaleidoscope prints, and Fraggle Rock-esque headpieces that matched the shaggy outerwear. Gucci’s Sabato De Sarno also turned back time for his star-studded crowd, showing 1960s-inspired mini dresses and skirt sets in vibrant color palettes.

One thing Italian designers have mastered is the art of tailoring, so it’s natural that business-first suiting was also on the menu last week. Elegant three-piece sets, boxy iridescent blazer dresses, and oversized briefcases and totes (perfect for laptops and work-appropriate accoutrement) were shown on the runways of Boss, Jil Sander, and Max Mara.

And that’s just scratching the surface of the mixed bag of trends coming out of Milan. Ahead six key looks that captured the attention of TZR editors.

3D

Forget pattern play. Milan Fashion Week saw a host of designers thinking outside the box and venturing into multidimensional realms. Missoni embraced the abstract, bringing back the Y2K-coded zig-zag pattern in fresh ways that literally popped out of various mini-dresses and blouses they decorated. At Marni, foliage print hit realistic levels as the ball gowns seemed to sprout actual leaves and brush. And Sportmax took a more subtle approach, featuring sheer tops with bubble-like texture reminiscent of a Chet Lo design.

Nothing But Net

Mermaidcore hasn’t lost its appeal, as evidenced by spring/summer 2025 runways which featured all manner of netted fabrics and designs. From The Attico’s shimmering, barely-there maxi gowns and Roberto Cavalli’s shipwreck-inspired skirts to the wine red crocheted fitted tops at Etro, the island vacay vibes were in full force.

Let’s Shag

Another play on the texture trend running rampant throughout MFW, shag-like finishes seemed to leap from the retro carpets from which they’ve been designated and onto the 2025 styles everyone will be living in. Outerwear was covered in pettable, long-haired finishes at Antonio Marras and Bottega Veneta’s viral show (which also featured coordinating muppet-like headpieces). Labels like Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini took a more understated approach to the look, featuring oversized clutch purses in the funky finish.

In-Office Treatment

Amidst the sundresses and whimsical patterns dominating the fall collections was also a move toward an all-business-like approach to dressing. Perhaps it’s the gradual universal return to in-office work schedules, but brands like Boss, Jil Sander, and Max Mara leaned into more professional silhouettes and styles, from the sleek, tailored, elegant suiting to the laptop-friendly handbags clutched by stoic models.

So Mod

The early aughts may be seeing the end of its reign as more and more labels are harkening back to the swinging ‘60s for inspiration. Sabato De Sarno, who’s long drawn from the retro era, featured mod-like mini skirt-sets and accessories in citrus colorways on the Gucci runway. Prada, whose futuristic-nostalgia hybrid collection made headlines, showed similar ‘60s-inspired A-line skirts and dresses that read very Judy Jetson while Emporio Armani included sherbet-colored raw silk short sets, topped with matching bandanas that would easily be seen on a Palm Royale extra.

In Shreds

The last death rattle for the Y2K craze could come in the form of ultra shredded denim. While this polarizing part of the turn of the century — made popular by denim brands like True Religion and Rock & Republic — was mercifully passed over, labels like MM6 Maison Margiela, Diesel, and Philipp Plein signaled its comeback for Spring/Summer 2025.