The Miu Miu Girl Is Officially All Grown Up

Prada’s fun, carefree younger sister, Miu Miu, is growing up. Those days of rushing out the door rocking unruly hair and a teeny-tiny pleated miniskirt (perhaps atop a pair of crystal-encrusted underwear) may be in the past — or at least reserved for wild Friday nights out. The label’s new sophisticated era became clear the moment the first model strolled down the runway at its Fall/Winter 2024 show in Paris this morning. Bedecked in a sumptuous wool overcoat and delicate string of pearls she signaled that the frivolous Miu Miu girl is still very much here, just branching out, and tapping into her more buttoned-up side. Miuccia Prada, after all, is a master when it comes to designing clothing that strikes a balance between wearable and tongue-in-cheek funny.

Entering Paris’ Palais d’Iéna, guests were greeted with video installations made by Belgian-American artist Cécile B. Evans, which were detailed in the show notes as “art considered as a tool to enrich and expand conversation around people.” The catwalk was stacked with big names, including Gigi Hadid and Kristin Scott Thomas, who was joined by a few other models older than the teenage and young adult industry standard. One can only hope this signals that, much like Batsheva and Balmain did this season, fashion is finally giving women in the second half of their life (and, may we add, the prime of their spending power) the spotlight they deserve.

This season, Prada is still playing around with preppy silhouettes — or at least, her version of country club cool. For her Spring/Summer 2024 collection, co-ed staples like polos and chunky cardigans took center stage. However, she scaled back a bit with her latest designs, instead opting for slim-cut outerwear and V-neck pullovers.

Moreover, it wouldn’t be a stretch to say the creative director tapped into the idea of a modern-day Hitchcock heroine via glamorous midcentury long double-breasted coats, fur toppers, and full, voluminous skirts. But in true Prada fashion, the industry vet turned these tropes on their heads by way of bold colors (see tomato red and electric green) and off-kilter silhouettes (did you catch the hip cutouts on the final look?).

The accessories followed suit, and each was packed with personality. Eagle-eyed fashion girls likely caught Miu Miu’s signature logo undies subtly poking out from the sharp pencil skirts. Small but mighty, the rhinestone brooches — which were seen on select outerwear and dresses — certainly didn’t go unnoticed, either. Gardening got the Prada treatment, too, as oversized gloves that looked apt for planting veggies were a mainstay in the collection. Even the way the models clutched their satchel bags with one arm added a sense of drama.

Of course, it wouldn’t be a Miu Miu show without a major element of surprise. To wit, Prada seems to be on a mission to revive the hotly debated skinny jean. Her take on the polarizing denim? A low-rise, ankle-length pair with stitching down the front of both legs. But before you write them off, remember: The creative director has a way of creating pieces that people may not be into at first, but within a few months, they’re 100% on board. And though these jeans may not necessarily go viral like, say, that pleated miniskirt, there’s no doubt we’ll be seeing them on the A-list set soon.

All in all, Prada isn’t reinventing the wheel with her latest designs; rather, she’s building on her signatures from the past. And, per usual, she’s inspiring us to try pieces we never knew we needed.

With that in mind, check out a few of TZR’s favorite looks from the lineup below.