Proenza Schouler’s Latest Collection Is About Dressing From The Female Gaze

Fashion shows, in general, tend to do one of two things: push the industry conversation forward with challenging new ideas or offer up beautiful, timeless garments that are easy to imagine wearing. It’s a far more difficult feat to achieve both things at once, but those who do are all but guaranteed great success. Many might say that Proenza Schouler designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough have mastered this artful push-pull of the editorial and wearable after over two decades in the business. Since narrowing their focus a few years ago to move away from their hallmark prints toward simple, multi-textured pieces layered in unexpected ways, their seasonal presentations have been one of the hottest tickets of fashion month, and a barometer for what people will want to wear in the months ahead. Proenza Schouler’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, shown in New York City’s Chelsea neighborhood, was no different.

The best way to illustrate this point is perhaps with all the, well... nipples. Peaking beneath the sheer fabric of otherwise demure, covered up silhouettes — long sleeve maxi dresses, blouses buttoned all the way up — the repeated braless reveals felt less like illicit moves than actions of confidence. They did not come way of clothes for women who want to display their bodies for others; the label’s latest offerings are for those comfortable enough in their own skin to skip restrictive undergarments, nip slip be damned. And while style for the female gaze is certainly not a novel concept (oh heeeey there, Old Celine) on the runway, it’s an option many sorely miss after a post-Covid emphasis on “sexy” clothes.

This captivating sense of ease and fluidity also permeated the rest of the collection. There were relaxed pants (including jeans with a distressed troupe de l'oeil effect), big parkas with cozy fur linings, deconstructed sweaters made from boiled wool, and plenty of the label’s signature slim cut suits. The shoes — mainly a mix of white and red boots as well as sandal heels — were both practical and supremely desirable. Even the evening wear exuded an effortlessly languid vibe: think long stretchy dresses made from scrunched up gauzy material, and column fit leather midis in both black and candy foil gold.

But while Hernandez and McCollough have no qualms about strategically showing slivers of chest and midriff, they seemed very focused on covering up the neck this season. Turtlenecks and cozy wraps of all sorts were a theme on this catwalk, with oversized funnel necklines standing out as the most interesting theme. As for whether to wear the silhouette alongside an erogenous flash of skin? That’s up to you. But if you’re dressed in Proenza Schouler, chances are you’ll look amazing either way.

Keep scrolling for a selection of key looks.