(Runway)
A New York Moment With Ralph Lauren
The American designer showed his fall 2024 collection in an intimate setting at his design studio.
On an unusually warm Monday evening in April, Ralph Lauren held an intimate showing of the fall/holiday 2024 collection at his headquarters on Madison Avenue. Intimate as it can get with the likes of Jessica Chastain, Glenn Close, and Kerry Washington seated front row. Mahogany details, a rattan walkway, and a selection of artwork collected by the American designer on display, the design studio was staged to reflect the very first show he had in his office 52 years ago. A lot may have changed over the five decades since then, but what remains the same is the ethos and creative code behind the brand.
“The woman I design for has a beauty that comes from an inner confidence. She dresses for herself. Her style is personal and bold,” says Lauren, chief creative officer, in the show notes. “She believes in quiet sophistication not defined by time or trends.”
It’s this timeless quality which makes the brand a stalwart in American fashion, defining what it is today — and, most likely tomorrow. The label does not waver to the whims of trends but, rather a resolute commitment to simplicity, a luxurious one at that, by making well-tailored pieces in rich fabrics that stand the test of time. Case in point, the array of sumptuous wool jackets in shades of brown, universally flattering biased cut gowns in silk, and soft leather and suede jackets and pants, some with a fun dash of fringe. A particular standout was the chocolate brown knit cape and matching dress on model Bruna Tenório. Exquisitely fitted like second skin, this set will surely be a fall staple coveted next season and the season thereafter. With Lauren’s clothes, it never skews a specific moment in time or reads “too much.” There are no exaggerated silhouettes or details, it is constant elegance.
That isn’t to say that risks are not taken. Lauren’s bold mix of textures and aesthetics are on full display when it comes to styling. A silver beaded blouse layered underneath a brown pinstripe blazer clashed against black trousers and a western belt somehow makes sense and evokes intrigue. On paper it shouldn’t work, but when you lay yours eyes upon this amalgamated look, it makes perfect sense in the most unusual way. Just like how the American brand portrays life on the ranch as well as life on Madison Avenue, this look embodies the combination of these geographic aesthetics that span the country.
In terms of accessories, a new addition to the family of RL 888 tote bags is the beige one carried by Christy Turlington in the opening number. Made of supple leather and decorated with minimal hardware, it’s the ideal day-to-day carry all. And it wouldn’t be a Ralph Lauren show without one or two western hats in the mix. Anok Yai closes the show in a gold shimmery gown accessorized with chandelier earrings and a brown cowboy hat. A look that pretty much sums up the essence of the Ralph Lauren woman — glamorous, bold, and not afraid to mix things up.
A perfectly tailored pair of greige trousers that are soft and sumptuous,
