The Wrong Jacket Theory Is The Secret To Fresh Fall Style

Unlike some flash-of-the-pan viral trends, the wrong shoe theory, created by stylist and author Allison Bornstein, has yet to fizzle out of the fashion landscape. Basketball shorts with strappy heels, billowy dresses with leather mules — the style set’s penchant for unique outfit formulas knows no bounds. Now, industry insiders are making the case for a similar styling idea: Enter the wrong jacket theory. Simply by contrasting the vibe of your topper with what’s underneath it, you’re almost guaranteed a visually striking look.

Writer Jalil Johnson, for instance, dedicated an entire post about the trend in his newsletter, Consider Yourself Cultured, this past week. His thoughts as to why it’s picking up steam? “We’ve reached a fascinating point in fashion where designers seem to be offering styling propositions rather than exclusively focusing on introducing new silhouettes,” he tells TZR. “This isn't to say there aren’t innovations happening — just look at the work of Simone Bellotti at Bally, Matthieu Blazy at Bottega Veneta, Tory Burch, and Raul Lopez at Luar, to name a few.” However, Johnson believes the wrong jacket theory illustrates how designers are offering creative outfit ideas that both promote social media engagement and influence customers to shop their pieces.

As such, the look is alive and well on the spring/summer 2025 runways. “Burberry made a strong statement with a party dress adorned in paillettes styled beneath an anorak,” Johnson explains. “No. 21 followed suit with Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s opening look — an embellished ‘60s-style cocktail dress worn under a parka — perfectly capturing his idea of playing with contracts: high and low, couture and casual, etc.” (Vogue’s José Criales-Unzueta wrote about the burgeoning parka and cocktail dress look seen on the catwalks.)

Then, at Prada’s buzzed-about show, co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons made waves when they sent out a model clad in a high-shine mirrored dress under a bright yellow raincoat. Thunderstorms, but make it fashion? Ferragamo approached the styling trick a bit differently with a head-to-toe ballet look teamed with a lightweight jacket featuring a high-low hemline.

And though it’s having a moment this month, it’s not a new concept. In his newsletter, Johnson also mentions how last October (months after the aforementioned wrong shoe theory went viral), British Vogue spotlighted this outerwear hack, touching on the looks seen on the spring/summer 2024 runways at Gucci, Dries Van Noten, Marni, and Khaite.

But if it’s your first time test driving the look? Johnson has some advice to help get you started. “The beauty of this concept lies in how it empowers the individual wearing the clothes,” he says. Similar to its footwear counterpart, there’s no such thing as throwing on the wrong type of jacket. “It’s about challenging your initial instincts and embracing contrast,” he notes. “By intentionally creating an unexpected clash within an outfit, you add a layer of visual interest that captures attention and makes the look more compelling.”

Ahead, find outfit inspiration from the six wrong jacket theory-approved looks.

Puffer + Midi Skirt

Puffer jacket season is upon us. And while you may think the coat is reserved for laid-back excursions, like picking up your takeout order around the block, it also has the potential for a special occasion. For example, influencer Pernille Rosenkilde donned Marikmekko’s floral version alongside a ladylike midi skirt and metallic gold bag at the brand’s CPHFW show. Try wearing yours atop a slip dress for an evening out.

Blazer + Sweats

Why not look put-together while running errands on Sunday afternoon?  You never know who you’ll bump into in the checkout line. Keep comfy in a matching sweat set, and then elevate things with a neutral blazer. For your footwear, opt for a silhouette you can easily walk around in, like a sneaker or ballet flat.

Fuzzy Coat + Track Pants

Fashion girls have declared track pants the new bottom du jour. Instead of pairing said look with something equally casual, consider zhuzhing them up with a furry jacket. One of Saks Potts or Charlotte Simone’s cult-favorite styles is an excellent pick. Round out the look with a chunky heel to keep the outfit compelling.

Utility Jacket + Full Skirt

Johnson, of course, has already mastered the trend. Case in point: This utility jacket and full skirt duo. It read unexpected yet elevated, no? And, as he mentions in his newsletter, don’t be afraid to also tap into the wrong shoe theory, as the writer demonstrates with this look. Sperry boat shoes? No, they likely aren’t your first thought when choosing footwear, but they’re both of-the-moment and comfortable.

Distressed Leather Jacket + Slinky Set

How to give your sweet, pajama-inspired two-piece look a hint of edge for a Friday night out in the city? Toss on a distressed leather jacket — black or brown works. On the accessories front, a Barbiecore-esque hot pink bag provides the perfect splash of color to the look.