Calvin Klein’s First Runway Show In 7 Years Was A Return To Form — Sort Of

In the history of American fashion, there are just a few labels that have managed to become embedded in the nation’s pop culture narrative. Calvin Klein is easily one of those brands. From its mesmerizing — and controversial — early ‘80s denim ads featuring an ethereal Brooke Shields and a pre-fame Kate Moss 10 years later to its sleek minimalist collections creatively led by the likes of Francisco Costa and most recently Raf Simmons, the brand — and its subversive underwear — is one of the most storied in the modern nation. So, in entering its new era under the direction of Italian designer Veronica Leoni, it’s only natural that people would flock to watch the next chapter unfold. Indeed, Calvin Klein’s highly anticipated Fall 2025 collection was quite the affair, filling the mid-town venue with eager-eyed attendees that included Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, Law Roach, Greta Lee, and Klein himself.

Considering Leoni’s past posts at famously minimalist brands like Celine, The Row, and Jil Sander, it was understood that her fresh vision for Calvin Klein would honor both her own signature approach and that of the nearly 60-year-old label. But, considering the brand’s last runway show was seven years ago and, since then, its identity and popularity has been based in eyebrow-raising underwear campaigns (here’s looking at you, Jeremy Allen White), the question on everyone’s minds was undoubtedly: What are we gonna see here?

As the first few looks sauntered down the runway, the answer slowly began to unfold. Amidst the neutral-colored, pristinely tailored, ‘90s-inspired suiting and everyday essentials (2025 will mark the return of the work pant), Klein’s original vision of elegant, elevated sportswear was surely honored. But it was the modern detailing — dramatic cape coats, oversized funnel-necked pull-overs, wrap-front tuxedo jackets — that screamed Leoni.

“I really tried to connect with his [Klein’s] original energy and we really tried to explore a 24/7 wardrobe, to give it a cinematic and a real reality,” said the creative director in a backstage interview with Vogue.

Part of that 24/7 wardrobe included sexy formalwear that also subtly signaled to the Calvin Klein collections of yore. (We all remember that scene from 1995’s Clueless when a teenage Cher Horowitz’s night-out look is questioned by her protective father. “What the hell is that?” he asks of her barely there ivory minidress. “A dress,” says Cher. When rebutted with a “says who?” the high schooler simply says, “Calvin Klein” before bustling out the door.)

However, in place of the slinky silk slips and thigh-grazing shifts that dominated some 30 years ago, Leoni opted for more structure and volume in her evening attire. Sensuality was quietly implied via strapless, bottle-shaped midis and collar-bone enhancing, off-the-shoulder, sweetheart necklines, and sheer organza skirts.

While the jury is still out on how the greater public will respond to Leoni’s fresh vision, Klein’s seal of approval has been given. “For a start, it’s pretty extraordinary,” he said to Vogue after the presentation.

Ahead, some highlights from Calvin Klein’s Fall 2025 collection.