After the Spring/Summer 2020 collections hit runways at the close of last year, viewers (and reviewers) quickly built their lists of most-notable shows. They gawked at Gucci’s provocative introduction to latex and lace, Saint Laurent’s sequined suits amid an Eiffel Tower light-show, and Area’s tribute to disco, to name a few of those unanimous favorites. But, there are also a handful of Summer 2020 collections you may have overlooked the first time around.
With a month of shows — more if you count newer Fashion Weeks like Copenhagen — pulling attendees and media in every which way, it can be tough for brands to jockey for a long-lasting position in the spotlight. Even those with an extended history in the industry may need a revisit once the chaos of the season settles down. Dive into the collections that you may have missed the first time around, and what you'll find are out-of-the-box pieces you love, a new take on the season’s trend you’ve eye on, and an invite to depart from your comfort zone. Some of the must-revisit collections of this Spring/Summer season included elevated animal prints, easy-pairing monochrome, and an unexpected approach to cut-outs. And looking back nine months later, you also may pick up on trends that didn't immediately jump out last September, but have emerged more slowly.
Summer is only just arriving, and many have willfully forgotten anything existed other than loungewear. Ahead, here’s five collections to get familiar with before you start shopping again.
Spring/Summer 2020 Collection: Schiaparelli
Grandiose jewelry designs stole the show for many, but the apparel warrants a second look at Daniel Roseberry’s first Spring collection as the house’s Creative Director. Schiaparelli’s returned to the runway as a couture house in 2014 after a 60 year hiatus, translating couture elements into their more retail friendly Ready-to-Wear collections as well. Think floor-length sheer sleeves; gold, lash-like eye adornments; and dramatic feathering. While animal prints are currently trending, Roseberry approaches the cow print differently than expected: The collection features an asymmetrical leather dress composed of only two large cow spots, versus an all-over print. The collection screams “reinvention of the ordinary,” possibly a foreshadowing of Roseberry’s work to come.
Spring/Summer 2020 Collection: Naeem Khan
Just when it seemed zebra print couldn’t go any further, Naeem Khan conjures up a sheer, sequined-embellished variation that graces his Spring 2020 collection in three pieces: a dress, jumpsuit, and coat. And just when you thought there wasn’t possibly anything you could do to revamp floral, Khan did. Combined with peacock feathers, leafy vines and the brightest of hues, the first few floral pieces in Khan’s Spring collection are intriguingly cartoon-esque, while the remaining are flirty and formal. Okay, it’s not every day that you need a maxi sherbet-colored gown, but this collection makes you wish it was.
Spring/Summer 2020 Collection: Marco de Vincenzo
If the baby blues and sweet pinks weren’t indication enough that Marco de Vincenzo’s collection was a summer dream, surely models parading down the runway with perfectly-scooped ice cream in hand relayed the message. This year, designers showcased the versatile potential of crochet; a series of looks from De Vincenzo’s Spring 2020 collection featured dual-layered garments — crochet on top, and iridescent sequins beneath. This, along with an array of other textures and fabrics such as pleated cut-outs and sheer plaid, kept the collection interesting while each model sported only one color respectively. “I’ve been thinking of doing a monochromatic collection for a long time,” De Vincenzo told Vogue. Per the recent surge in the love for monochrome across the fashion community, the decision was fitting.
Spring/Summer 2020 Collection: Guy Laroche
You saw Cara Delevingne step out in the collection's most daring piece shortly following the show — the cut-out look of all cut-out looks — but the beauty in Guy Laroche’s Spring 2020 collection lies in the reimagining of the often unappreciated wardrobe color, brown. Gradient sunglasses paired with a repeated geometric pattern and simple, structured handbags feel futuristic and vintage all at once (perhaps more vintage leaning, as designer Richard René told Vogue that honoring 1970s sex workers was his inspiration behind the collection). René visits the ever popular bra trend of the season, and gives you a reason to wear denim… even if most of it is missing.
Spring/Summer 2020 Collection: Ports 1961
At first glance, Karl Templer’s debut collection for Ports 1961’s Spring 2020 collection may seem understated and classic. Look again, and you’ll find that all the trends for the season are right here: zebra print (again), spring florals, stripes, a little plaid, dual-toned garments, the sheer-style tops everyone’s been loving, and Templer’s take on the split-leg trouser. Templer said his goal was to “re-examine the most familiar things in a woman’s wardrobe,” which you can see echoed in an exposed stitching trench coat and the addition of silk to a military-style jacket. The collection carries well into fall, and though it is truly a capsule of unorthodox statement pieces, Templer does offer up a few styles that could easily become your latest essentials.
