(Designers)

How Roberto Coin Jewelry Became A Red-Carpet Staple

The Venice-born designer has quickly become known for his timeless pieces.

by Fawnia Soo Hoo
Cynthia Erivo attends The 2021 Met Gala wearing Roberto Coin jewelry

Following a jaunt to Dubai on behalf of his self-named luxury jewelry line, Venice-born Roberto Coin spent the holidays in Madrid with his family.

“I also hope to [experience] the joy of Miami soon again,” says the jet-setting Coin, whose renowned designs take inspiration from his frequent — and far-flung — travels, as well as his hometown.

“To be honest, I was late in deciding to [pay homage to] my Venetian roots,” says Coin, who founded his company in 1996. In December, he finally unveiled two Venice-themed collections during a spectacular 80th birthday gala — a masked ball in a regal palazzo on the Grand Canal. “Now I feel very proud about collections like Venetian Princess and Palazzo Ducale that link my jewels to my origins.”

The former celebrates the City of Canals through a romantic blooming four-petal design featuring an array of black and white diamonds, precious stones and/or pearls on gleaming gold. It feels as if Coin journeyed back to idyllic childhood summers spent with his grandmother in Venice. “It’s a beautiful area where the houses have been built along the banks of the Brenta Riviera,” he told Petite Genève. “Where nature dictates the pace, typical of life in the countryside.” With the latter, Coin honors the majestic Venetian Gothic architecture of his favorite hometown landmark, the Doge’s Palace, through medallions featuring intricate geometric work.

Venetian Princess Pirouette pieces from the latest Roberto Coin campaign.Courtesy of Roberto Coin

Coin has finally returned home, after an ongoing odyssey of travels, in person and via his visionary designs — like the chain-link-filled Navarra collection, which nods toward the multicultural beauty of the Basque and Spanish region. Before founding his self-named jewelry company nearly 30 years ago, Coin also enjoyed a successful career in the international hospitality industry.

“I worked in the hotel business in Switzerland, Italy, France and the U.K., and finally opened my hotel, the Duke of Richmond in Guernsey [in 1970],” says Coin, who speaks four languages. “The hotel business and atmosphere greatly influenced me. I learned quickly that the golden rule of hospitality is treating others as you wish to be treated.”

Coin has since translated the generous sentiment into his jewelry brand, especially with his signature delicate red ruby hidden on the inside of each piece; the proximity almost caresses the wearer. Many cultures around the world believe wearing rubies against the skin will bring health and happiness — a welcoming message Coin wants to pass onto his clientele.

To learn the jewelry business from the ground up, Coin also dedicated himself to, of course, more journeys. “For over seven years, I visited [more than 1,000] factories all over the world,” he says. “Those years influenced me because I was experiencing different countries, cultures, traditions and techniques.”

Ultimately, for his company headquarters, Coin chose Vicenza, also known as “the City of Gold.” The region manufactures roughly one-fifth of Italy’s gold and jewelry and is renowned for its engineering focus and visionary architecture by Andrea Palladio. “The difference between the rest of the world and Vicenza is related to manufacturing,” explains Coin. “In Vicenza, there was great technology and a truly great investment in machinery. Artisans studied like engineers in order to become able to produce faster and better.”

Pieces from the Roberto Coin Venetian Princess collection.Courtesy of Roberto Coin

Well, Roberto Coin produces 600-plus pieces of glittering, luxurious jewelry a year, while retailing in more than 1,000 shops in more than 60 countries across the globe. Because Coin brings that same creative, hand-craftsmanship-meets-innovation approach to his business and designs.

“The skeleton of a simple bangle needs to be made with the highest technology today, as technology allows you to produce it much stronger, with less gold needed and perfect symmetry,” explains Coin. “This is something that would be impossible if it were completed only by hand. Then you must cover the skeleton with beauty — and this is when you need the artisans’ hands. Only wise and capable hands, with the knowledge of tradition and a soul, can create true beauty.”

After three decades of prolific designs and business-building, Coin still feels an affinity toward his very first collection, Apassionata, which established his ethos. “Even today, it is highly valued by antique dealers. At the time, it was considered impossible to produce,” he says, about the intricate, shimmering basket-weave design that evokes soft, flowing fabrics. Coin also points toward the opulent Cento diamond collection. “A groundbreaking discovery in the world of diamond cutting. With 100 facets, it shines with a new kind of beauty, symbolizing our desire to dress every woman with something truly unique,” Coin says.

Cynthia Erivo wears Roberto Coin jewelry at the Nov. 9 Los Angeles premiere of Wicked.Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic/Getty Images

Understandably, Hollywood has embraced Coin’s distinctive vision and sumptuous, red-carpet-ready pieces — especially Wicked star Cynthia Erivo. The Oscar hopeful — who’s one letter away from an EGOT — just wore loads of glimmering diamonds on white gold on an haute couture statement ring and cascading earrings from the Domino Collection to the 2025 Golden Globes. For the Los Angeles premiere of the Jon M. Chu-directed blockbuster, Erivo stunned in more of the brand’s haute couture pieces, including a diamond and emerald collar clocking in at $750,000 and Stelle Button 18-karat white gold earrings brilliant with Cento Collection diamonds. Her relationship with Coin dates back to the 2021 Met Gala, when Erivo smoldered in a stunning, one-of-a-kind dragon necklace from the archives.

“Cynthia is an exceptionally talented individual with an incredible sense of style. I am truly inspired by her boldness and confidence. Creating jewelry for powerful women like Cynthia is a passion of mine, as she perfectly represents that strength,” says Coin. “We collaborate closely with her stylist, Jason Bolden, who shares their vision for each look. We are able to provide unique pieces that complete their vision.”

Another of Bolden’s clients, Nicole Kidman, has also worn Roberto Coin to, appropriately, the Venice Film Festival for the premiere of Babygirl. For her glamorously Hitchcockian vaporetto arrival, Kidman’s dangling Venetian Princess earrings perfectly accessorized her deep-plunge Bottega Veneta. She wore Roberto Coin again for the October premiere of The Lioness.

MEGA/GC Images/Getty Images

“As the brand grew and we offered more ‘red carpet’ haute couture pieces, we soon had my jewelry on actresses nominated for the Oscars, Golden Globes, and Emmys,” says Coin. “We have dressed everyone, like Halle Berry, Taraji P. Henson, Tina Fey, Cate Blanchett, Oprah Winfrey, Kate McKinnon, Melissa Etheridge, Jennifer Lopez, Alicia Keys, and too many others to name.”

With awards season red carpets in full-swing — and Erivo and Kidman top contenders — Coin’s team is presumably busy collaborating with A-list stylists. He’s excited, while remaining discreetly diplomatic. “I started my company with the hope that women would wear Roberto Coin jewelry not just for its beauty, but because it brings them joy and happiness,” he says. “If we can be a part of these once-in-a-lifetime moments, it truly brings me joy. As for this year, we’ll wait to see who the nominees are, and we’d be thrilled to dress any of these talented women.”

In the meantime, Coin is prepping his travel — and inspiration-gathering — itineraries for 2025 and beyond. “In Italy, we study history very deeply, and I am fond of this topic,” he says. “I am fascinated by the Persians, Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans and so on… At some point, I would like to visit the Paradise Garden, close to Baghdad, along the Tigris River.”

The sky is literally the limit, like Coin’s jewelry design vision.